Amsterdamse Bos

The Amsterdamse Bos is the city's great outdoor playground, and for families or anyone staying more than a few days it is the best escape from the crowds without leaving town. Despite its natural feel, the forest is entirely man-made: it was planted from the 1930s onwards on reclaimed polder land south-west of the city, partly as a job-creation project during the Depression, and it now covers roughly a thousand hectares of woodland, meadows, lakes and waterways, stretching into neighbouring Amstelveen. Paths for walking, cycling, running and horse-riding thread through it, and there are swimming spots, play areas and wide lawns for picnics. The long, straight Bosbaan, a rowing course, cuts across the forest and is busy with rowers and spectators, while canoes and boats can be hired on the water. Several favourite stops make it easy to fill a day. The goat farm Ridammerhoeve, in the middle of the forest, has a petting area with kids to bottle-feed in season, a cheese dairy and a playground; Boerderij Meerzicht, at the start of the Bosbaan, is a much-loved pancake farmhouse with a sunny terrace; the Bostheater is an open-air theatre with summer performances and concerts; and Fun Forest offers rope, ladder, bridge and zip-line routes through the trees for climbers. The visitor centre, De Boswinkel, has maps and advice, and bikes can be rented at De Boshalte opposite. Rangers lead boat tours through the forest's waterways from spring to autumn. Entry to the forest is free; activities charge individually.

Why go: few visitors make it here, which is exactly why it feels so authentic. On weekends you see Amsterdam families cycling with children on the back, runners training around the Bosbaan and friends picnicking by the water. It shows a quieter side of Dutch life, and it is a fine contrast to the museum-heavy centre. Nature lovers will spot herons, waterfowl and, in quieter corners, other wildlife. The forest is also a good reminder that so much of the Dutch landscape, however natural it looks, has been carefully designed.

Getting there and around: the forest lies on the edge of the city, beyond the Olympic Stadium and the Zuid business district. The easiest way is to cycle, taking about half an hour from the Vondelpark along signed routes. Buses from the city stop at the main entrances, and in season, on certain days, a heritage tram line runs from the Haarlemmermeer station area to the edge of the forest, a fun ride for families. Once inside, rent a bike at De Boshalte, because distances are large: walking from the entrance to the goat farm takes a while. Pick up a map at De Boswinkel and plan your stops around the farm, the Bosbaan and a pancake lunch.

When to go: spring and summer are best, with lambs and kids at the goat farm, open-air theatre and swimming, but the forest is beautiful in autumn colours and quiet in winter. Weekends are livelier and busier; weekdays are peaceful. Check the forest's site for notices about works or closures, especially after storms, and for the opening days of the goat farm, the climbing park and the boat tours, which vary by season. Bring insect repellent on warm, still days near the water.