Magere Brug and the Amstel

The Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge, is the most photographed bridge in a city of more than twelve hundred, and the walk along the Amstel around it is one of the loveliest free strolls in Amsterdam. The river Amstel gave the city its name: Amsterdam grew up around a dam on the Amstel in the thirteenth century, and the river still flows broad and stately through the eastern side of the centre, lined with grand buildings and houseboats. The Magere Brug crosses it between the Kerkstraat and the Nieuwe Kerkstraat. The present bridge, a white-painted wooden double drawbridge, replaced earlier versions on the same spot; a popular legend says the first, very narrow footbridge was built by two sisters named Mager who lived on opposite banks and wanted to visit each other more easily, though the name may simply describe how skinny it was. The bridge is still raised for passing boats, which is fun to watch, and after dark it is outlined in hundreds of small light bulbs that reflect in the river, making it a classic romantic evening spot. Around it, the Amstel is lined with landmarks. Just upstream on the eastern bank stands the Royal Theatre Carré, a nineteenth-century circus building that now hosts shows; a little downstream is the long, classical Amstelhof, a former home for elderly women that now houses the H'ART Museum, with major exhibitions in partnership with international museums. Further upstream, the grand Amstel Hotel looks over the water, and downstream the Blauwbrug leads to the Waterlooplein and the Stopera, the combined city hall and opera house.

A walk to try: start at the Blauwbrug near the Waterlooplein, walk south along the eastern bank past the Stopera and the Amstelhof to the Magere Brug, continue past the Carré to the Amstel Hotel, then cross the Hogesluis bridge and return along the quieter western bank, crossing the Magere Brug itself on the way. It takes under an hour at an easy pace and passes houseboats, grand canal houses, terraces and bridges with views in every direction. Detour into the Reguliersgracht from the Amstel side to stand at the spot where you can see seven bridges lined up in a row, one of the most famous views in the Canal Ring. In the evening, as the lights come on along the Magere Brug and the Carré, the walk is at its most beautiful.

Going further: cyclists can follow the Amstel south out of the city towards the village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, a flat, easy ride along the river past windmills, meadows and riverside houses, with cafés and restaurants at the end. It is the classic local half-day ride and shows how quickly Amsterdam gives way to countryside. Boat cruises also pass under the Magere Brug, and many canal-cruise routes include the Amstel, so you can see it from the water as well. In winter, the Amsterdam Light Festival often places installations along the waterways in the centre, and the illuminated bridge fits right in.

Practical notes: the bridge is open to pedestrians and cyclists, and you can stand on it for photos, but keep an eye out for bikes, which use it constantly. Early morning gives the calmest light and the fewest people; after dark, the lights draw couples and photographers. The H'ART Museum, the Carré and the hotel bars nearby make it easy to combine the walk with an exhibition, a show or a drink. The area is central, a short walk from the Rembrandtplein and the Waterlooplein metro station, and trams run along the Weesperstraat and the Sarphatistraat.