Lycabettus Hill

Rising above the elegant Kolonaki district, Lycabettus Hill is the highest point in central Athens at about 277 metres, and its summit gives the finest panorama in the city. From the top, the whole white sprawl of Athens spreads out in every direction to the mountains of Parnitha, Penteli and Hymettus, with the Acropolis and the Parthenon looking surprisingly small in the middle distance, and on clear days the Saronic Gulf, the port of Piraeus and the islands beyond. Legend says the hill was a rock dropped by Athena when she was carrying it to build the Acropolis; in reality it is a limestone outcrop whose lower slopes are covered in pine woods, agaves and cacti, crossed by a network of footpaths. At the summit stands the little whitewashed Chapel of Agios Georgios, from the nineteenth century, and beside it a terrace, a cafe and the Orizontes restaurant, where a table at sunset is one of the most romantic reservations in Athens. On the north-east shoulder, the open-air Lycabettus Theatre hosts concerts in summer. There are two ways up. The walk takes around forty-five minutes on paths and steps from the top of Kolonaki, steep but shaded in places, and is best early in the morning or in the late afternoon. The funicular, which runs through a tunnel inside the hill from the lower station at Aristippou Street in Kolonaki, takes just a few minutes and runs from morning until late at night. There is also a road most of the way up for taxis, with a short flight of steps to finish. The hill itself is free.

Timing the view: sunset is the classic moment, when the sun sinks toward the sea behind the Acropolis and the city lights flicker on, and the summit terrace gets crowded, so arrive early. Morning is quieter, clearer and cooler, and great for photographers and walkers. The view is best on clear days after rain or with a north wind, when the air is sharp and you can see the islands; on hazy summer days the far horizon disappears, though the Acropolis is always visible. Bring a layer, as it can be breezy at the top even in summer.

Getting up and down: the funicular's lower station is at the top of Ploutarchou Street, where it meets Aristippou Street, a steep walk up from Kolonaki Square, or a short taxi ride. Tickets are sold one-way or return, and running from morning until late, it makes sunset easy. Walkers can start from the same area and follow the zigzag path through the pines, or climb from the Dexameni side. A good plan is to walk up in the cool of the evening and ride down after dark, or ride up and walk down. Wear shoes with grip, because the paths are rocky and can be slippery.

Around the hill: Kolonaki, at the foot of Lycabettus, is Athens' most stylish neighbourhood, with designer boutiques, galleries, cafes full of well-dressed locals and some of the city's best museums, including the Benaki Museum and the Museum of Cycladic Art. Combine an afternoon in Kolonaki with sunset on the summit and dinner back down in the neighbourhood. Families will enjoy the funicular ride and the views, while couples should book a sunset table at the summit restaurant well ahead, especially at weekends.