Plaka & Anafiotika

Plaka is the oldest continuously inhabited neighbourhood of Athens and the one that most visitors fall for first. It wraps around the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis in a maze of stepped lanes, pastel neoclassical houses, small Byzantine churches and leafy squares, and much of it is pedestrianised, which makes it a pleasure to wander. Its two main arteries, Adrianou and Kydathineon, are lined with cafes, souvenir shops and tavernas, and they connect many of the city's quieter ancient monuments: the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates, a small, elegant round monument from the fourth century BC; the Roman Agora with the octagonal Tower of the Winds, a marble clock and weathervane from the first century BC; and the ruins of Hadrian's Library on the Monastiraki side. Several small museums hide in Plaka's mansions too, including collections of Greek folk art and musical instruments. But the real magic lies above. Climb the steps toward the Acropolis rock from the upper lanes and you reach Anafiotika, a cluster of tiny whitewashed houses, blue doors, potted geraniums and cats that looks as if it has been transplanted from a Cycladic island. It more or less was: it was built in the nineteenth century by builders from the island of Anafi who came to Athens to work on the new royal capital and recreated their island homes on the slopes. It is a living neighbourhood, so explore quietly and respect residents' privacy. Plaka is free to explore at any hour and is the best base for walking to the Acropolis, the museum and Monastiraki.

How to explore it: arrive early in the morning, before the shops open and the tour groups arrive, and Plaka feels like a village. Start at Hadrian's Arch, walk up Lysikratous Street to the Lysicrates Monument, then wind along Tripodon, one of the oldest streets in Athens, and climb into Anafiotika via the little lanes off Stratonos and Pritaniou streets. The paths are narrow and stepped and some are dead ends, so do not worry about getting lost — every path downhill leads back to Plaka. From the upper edge of Anafiotika there are views over the rooftops toward Lycabettus. Descend toward the Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds, and finish in Monastiraki.

Eating and shopping: Plaka's tavernas are popular, and the most touristy ones with laminated picture menus and hosts calling from the doorways are best skipped. Better meals are found on the side streets, on the roof terraces with Acropolis views, or by walking ten minutes into Koukaki, Makrygianni or Psirri. For souvenirs, look for genuine local products — olive oil soaps, honey, mastic, leather sandals, worry beads — rather than mass-produced trinkets. Plaka is also lovely in the evening, when the lanes are lit, families stroll and the floodlit Acropolis looms above, and the open-air cinema on Kydathineon is a summer institution.

Why stay here: for first-timers, Plaka and the streets just around it are the most convenient base in Athens, within walking distance of almost all the ancient sites, Syntagma Square and the metro. Hotels are generally small, and the lanes are quiet at night away from the main streets. The trade-off is that prices are higher and some streets are thick with crowds in high season. Wherever you stay, give Plaka at least one early morning and one evening, and make the climb into Anafiotika, the most unexpected corner of the city.