Campuhan Ridge Walk, Ubud

The Campuhan ridge is where Ubud stops being a busy town and becomes the green Bali of the postcards in a matter of minutes. Campuhan means the meeting of two rivers, and the walk begins beside the confluence on the western edge of Ubud, where a small, ancient temple, Pura Gunung Lebah, sits on the rocks at the bottom of the valley. From there a path climbs onto a narrow ridge of tall alang-alang grass between the two river gorges, with coconut palms, jungle and the occasional villa roof on either side, and wide views across the valleys towards the mountains on a clear morning. The path is paved and fairly wide, which makes it easy to follow and popular with joggers, walkers and photographers, and it climbs gently for about two kilometres before reaching the rice fields and houses of Bangkiang Sidem village. Here the walk opens out into terraced paddies, small cafes and warungs where you can stop for coffee or a fresh coconut, and a few art studios. Many walkers turn back at this point; others continue on village lanes through the fields towards Keliki, making a longer loop of several hours. The ridge is free and open at all times. Its appeal is partly the landscape and partly the feeling of the old Ubud that drew painters such as Walter Spies, whose house stood near the confluence. Nearby, the Blanco Renaissance Museum, home of the flamboyant artist Antonio Blanco, sits above the river, and the Neka Art Museum is a short walk up the road, so the area makes a natural half day for art and nature lovers.

When to walk: early. The ridge has almost no shade, and by mid-morning the sun is strong; at sunrise, the light comes over the valley, mist sometimes fills the gorges and the path is pleasantly quiet. Late afternoon into sunset is the second-best time, with a golden glow on the grass, though more walkers. In the wet season, aim for early mornings, as afternoon storms are common, and the paving can be slippery in rain.

Finding the start: the walk begins next to the Warwick Ibah hotel at the bottom of the hill on Jalan Raya Campuhan, west of the Ubud Palace. Follow the narrow lane to Pura Gunung Lebah, cross towards the temple and take the path climbing up onto the ridge. It is about fifteen to twenty minutes on foot from central Ubud, or a short taxi ride. Wear comfortable shoes, a hat and sunscreen, and bring water and a little cash for the cafes at the top.

Making a morning of it: walk the ridge at sunrise, have breakfast at one of the cafes in Bangkiang Sidem, then return and visit the Blanco Museum or the Neka Art Museum, or continue to the Ubud Palace and art market. If you prefer a longer hike, local guides offer walks deeper into the rice fields and villages north of Ubud. Respect the temple at the start: do not enter its inner area, and dress modestly as you pass.