Johnston Canyon

Johnston Canyon is the most popular trail in Banff National Park for good reason: in the space of a couple of kilometres it threads a narrow limestone gorge on catwalks fixed to the rock walls, with Johnston Creek roaring a few metres below. The first goal is the Lower Falls, about a kilometre in, where a short tunnel through the rock opens onto a spray-soaked platform beside the falls; the trail then climbs more steeply to the taller Upper Falls, roughly two and a half kilometres from the trailhead, with viewing platforms at the base and on the rim. Beyond, a quieter trail continues through forest and meadow to the Ink Pots, a cluster of cold, coloured springs. In summer the walk is free with your park pass but busy, and the trailhead parking lot on the Bow Valley Parkway fills early. In winter the canyon becomes something else. The falls freeze into blue-white columns and curtains, ice climbers sometimes work the Upper Falls, and the catwalks turn into an icewalk that needs cleats. That is when a guided tour earns its keep: the Johnston Canyon Icewalk from Banff includes round-trip coach transport, ice cleats, hiking poles and a guide, with hot chocolate and a maple cookie, running about four hours with morning and afternoon departures and free cancellation up to a day ahead. Whatever the season, stay on the official trail: Parks Canada prohibited off-trail use in the canyon in 2026 to protect a declining population of endangered black swifts, with substantial fines for violations.

The canyon is a lesson in water and rock. Johnston Creek has cut down through layers of limestone to form a slot that is only a few metres wide in places, and the catwalks — rebuilt and extended over the years to keep visitors off fragile ground — let you walk where no natural path exists. Parks Canada's railing projects in recent years were designed partly to reduce disturbance to the black swifts that nest on the canyon walls, which form one of very few known nesting sites for the species in Alberta. A seasonal restriction in 2026 made off-trail use illegal between the lower trail sign and the Ink Pots junction, and the agency has signalled that protecting the birds is a long-term priority.

Choosing summer or winter. A summer visit is a self-guided walk: arrive before nine or after five to avoid the tour buses, allow about an hour to the Lower Falls and back, two to three hours for the Upper Falls, and four to five hours if you continue to the Ink Pots. Wear proper shoes — the catwalks are damp and the upper section is steep. The winter icewalk is a different product: the trail is packed snow and ice, cleats are essential, and the guide adds context on the geology, the swifts and the ice formations. Icewalk season depends on the cold, typically starting once the canyon has frozen in early winter and running into spring, and evening icewalks are also sold.

Logistics. The trailhead is on the Bow Valley Parkway, about half an hour from the town of Banff, with a large lot and a small seasonal resort and café beside it. Do not assume food or services in winter. If you drive yourself, bring traction devices and go early; if you take the tour, check the meeting point when you book because pick-up instructions can vary by departure. Combined with a drive along the parkway, where elk and other wildlife are often seen, Johnston Canyon makes an excellent half day between Banff and Lake Louise.