Barcelona Cathedral

The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulàlia stands at the top of the Gothic Quarter, on the site of earlier churches going back to Roman times, and it is the spiritual centre of old Barcelona. Most of the building dates from the late thirteenth to the fifteenth centuries, and the interior is classic Catalan Gothic: a tall, dim nave lined with side chapels glowing with altarpieces, and a carved choir in the centre whose stalls are painted with the coats of arms of the knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece, who met here in the early sixteenth century. Beneath the high altar, steps lead down to the crypt of Saint Eulàlia, the young martyr who is one of the city's two patron saints, with her alabaster tomb. The elaborate main façade, which most visitors photograph from the square in front, is in fact a neo-Gothic addition finished around the turn of the twentieth century, and it is lit up beautifully after dark. The highlight for many is the cloister, a peaceful garden of palms, magnolias and orange trees around a pond, where a flock of thirteen white geese has been kept for centuries; tradition links the number to Eulàlia's age at her martyrdom. The cultural visit adds the parts most visitors miss: a lift up to the rooftops, where walkways lead among Gothic pinnacles with close-up views of the towers and wide views over the Gothic Quarter; access to the choir; the chapter house museum, with religious art including a celebrated painting by Bartolomé Bermejo; and other chapels and exhibitions.

Free or paid: the cathedral is a working church, and entry for worship and prayer, which includes the nave and the cloister, is free at set times. Tourist access with the cultural visit ticket, which costs a modest fee, covers the rooftops, choir and museum and is the better choice for most visitors: it avoids the restrictions of worship hours and lets you see everything. Hours and arrangements differ between weekdays, Saturdays and Sundays, when worship takes priority and visiting hours are shorter, so check before you go. Dress respectfully, with shoulders and knees covered, as staff at the door can refuse entry to people in beachwear or very short clothing.

Visiting well: allow an hour, a little more if you linger on the roof. The rooftop lift is small, so there can be a short wait at busy times; the views are worth it, especially of the central spire and the jumble of old-city roofs. Mornings are calmer than afternoons. Outside, the square in front of the cathedral hosts a Christmas market in December and, on some weekends, the sardana, the Catalan circle dance, when locals join hands and dance in front of the façade. The area is busy with street sellers and pickpockets, so keep belongings secure.

How it fits a trip: the cathedral is the natural starting point for a walk through the Gothic Quarter, with the Roman walls, Plaça del Rei and the medieval streets around it. Santa Maria del Mar, the city's other great Gothic church, is a ten-minute walk away in El Born, and comparing the two is fascinating: the cathedral is richer and darker, Santa Maria del Mar more spacious and austere. Palau Güell and the Boqueria lie just across La Rambla. For first-time visitors, combining the cathedral rooftops with a Gothic Quarter walk is one of the best ways to understand the medieval city.