Gothic Quarter

Hotel Neri

★★★★★

Hotel Neri is the Gothic Quarter at its most romantic. The hotel occupies two palaces — one with medieval origins, the other from the eighteenth century — joined together and restored with a light, sensitive touch, so that ancient stone walls, wooden beams and arches mix with contemporary furniture, soft textiles and warm lighting. It faces Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, a tiny, hidden square a few steps from the cathedral, with a fountain, trees and the façade of the baroque church where Gaudí came to pray; the pockmarks on that church's walls are a reminder of the 1938 bombing that killed children sheltering in the square, and the place has a hushed, reflective atmosphere that makes it one of the most memorable corners of the city. The hotel is a member of Relais and Châteaux, the collection of independent luxury hotels and restaurants, and it feels like a private house: the rooms are intimate rather than large, carefully designed, with good beds and quiet, and the suites offer more space and, in some cases, private terraces. The restaurant serves seasonal Mediterranean cooking, with tables spilling into the square in good weather — dinner under the trees, with the church floodlit, is magical. On top of the building, the rooftop terrace, Roba Estesa, is an oasis above the old city, with views over the Gothic Quarter's roofs and towers, drinks and tapas, and a small plunge pool. The address is unbeatable for walkers: the cathedral, Plaça del Rei and the Roman remains are a couple of minutes away, La Rambla and the Boqueria five, and El Born and the Picasso Museum ten.

Who it suits: couples, honeymooners and travellers who want a small, characterful hotel at the heart of the old city, rather than the amenities of a large resort. You will step out of the door into the most atmospheric medieval quarter in Barcelona, which also means narrow lanes, crowds at midday and the occasional late-night noise — the square itself is calm, but the neighbouring streets can be lively. Taxis can only get so close; plan for a short walk with luggage, or ask the hotel about arrival arrangements.

Living in it: rooms facing the square have the best views but some sound; interior rooms are quieter but darker. Suites with terraces are worth the upgrade for a special stay. Breakfast in the restaurant or on the square is a lovely ritual, and an evening drink on the rooftop terrace, watching the light fade over the cathedral's towers, is the hotel's signature moment. The staff are excellent at restaurant recommendations in the Gothic Quarter and El Born, where the best tables are rarely the obvious ones.

Value: rates are high for the room size, reflecting the location, the historic setting and the Relais and Châteaux service; the tourist tax is added per person per night. The value case is a sense of place you cannot find in a newer hotel: you are sleeping in a palace that has watched over this square for centuries, a two-minute walk from the cathedral. Book it for romance and for travellers who want to feel the old city around them.