Tempelhofer Feld

Tempelhofer Feld is the most Berlin of all Berlin parks: a former airport where the runways are now used for cycling, skating and kite-flying, and one of the largest inner-city open spaces in the world. The site covers more than 350 hectares between Neukoelln, Kreuzberg and Tempelhof, and the history packed into it is remarkable. In the Middle Ages the land belonged to the Knights Templar, who gave Tempelhof its name; later it became a military parade ground and a popular place for day trips. The first airport opened here in 1923, and between 1936 and 1941 the Nazis built the enormous curved terminal that still stands on the western edge, one of the largest buildings in the world when it was built. During the war, the Columbiahaus, an SS concentration camp, stood on the northern edge of the field, and forced labourers worked on the airport grounds producing armaments. Then in 1948 and 1949 Tempelhof became a symbol of freedom, as the key hub of the Berlin Airlift, when the Western Allies flew food, coal and supplies into blockaded West Berlin; the Airlift Memorial outside the terminal recalls it. Flights ended in 2008, the field opened to the public in 2010, and in 2014 Berliners voted in a referendum to keep it largely as it is. Today the long runways and taxiways are a car-free playground for cyclists, skaters and kite-surfers on wheels; the meadows are home to skylarks; and around the edges are community gardens, barbecue areas, sports pitches, a mini-golf course and dog areas. Entry is free, and the field is open daily from sunrise to sunset, so hours change with the seasons.

How to plan your visit: the main entrances are on Tempelhofer Damm on the western side, Columbiadamm to the north and Oderstrasse to the east in Neukoelln, with additional gates such as Herrfurthstrasse; some may be closed temporarily for building works, so check the official field website. Entrances close at sunset, though you can still leave through the turnstiles at the main gates. Bring sun protection and water in summer, as there is very little shade, and a warm layer the rest of the year, as the wind sweeps across the open space. Parking is limited, so come by U-Bahn or bike. Bicycles and pedal karts can be hired at the Tempelhofer Damm entrance.

Getting the most from it: the best way to experience the field is on wheels. Hire a bike or bring skates and ride the length of the old runway, which gives you a sense of the scale that walking cannot. Then wander over to the community gardens near the Neukoelln side, a patchwork of raised beds and improvised seating built by local groups, and finish at sunset, when the whole field turns gold and the city skyline appears along the horizon. If you want to barbecue, use one of the three designated areas and follow the rules on grills. Guided tours of the terminal building and the airfield history are offered separately, and the giant kite festival in September is a highlight of the year.

Who it suits and what to pair it with: families, who will find endless space for children to run and cycle; couples looking for a big-sky sunset picnic; and anyone who wants to see how Berliners actually spend their weekends. History buffs should combine it with the terminal building and the Airlift Memorial. It pairs well with the cafes and bars of Neukoelln and Kreuzberg nearby, and with Mauerpark on a weekend as a second dose of Berlin outdoor life.