Kreuzberg / Oranienplatz

Orania.Berlin

★★★★★

Orania.Berlin is the hotel for travellers who want to stay somewhere beautiful and grown-up, but in the real, lively Berlin rather than the government quarter. It occupies a handsome historic corner building directly on Oranienplatz, at the heart of Kreuzberg, the district famous for its Turkish community, its cafes and street life, and its history of squats and protest. Inside, the building has been turned into a warm, eclectic space of deep colours, velvet, wood and art, with a big open ground floor that flows from the bar to the restaurant and a lobby stage. The stage is what makes Orania special: Berlin musicians play regular jazz and classical concerts in the lobby, with free entry for hotel guests, so that an evening at the bar feels like a night at a good club without leaving the building. The 41 rooms and suites are individually designed, with high ceilings, rich fabrics, quality beds and considered details, from the smallest rooms suited to solo travellers to suites with views over the square. The restaurant, under head chef Philipp Vogel, has made Orania a destination for Berliners, with a focused menu in which each dish is built around just three main components,. The bar serves good cocktails and wines to a mix of guests and locals, and the whole place has the feel of a members' club without the exclusivity. Orania is also dog-friendly. The location puts you in the middle of Kreuzberg's best neighbourhoods: Oranienstrasse, with its bars and shops, is on the doorstep, the Landwehr Canal and the Paul-Lincke-Ufer are a short walk south, and the U-Bahn at Moritzplatz and Kottbusser Tor connects you quickly to Mitte. Rates are in the upper range for a boutique hotel, but fair for the quality and the experience.

Rooms and atmosphere: the rooms are on the upper floors and feel calm and private after the buzz of the ground floor, with good soundproofing for a busy square. Corner rooms and suites have the best views of Oranienplatz. The style is maximalist and personal, more boutique than corporate, and the staff are friendly and informal, typical of the neighbourhood. Breakfast is served in the restaurant and is a highlight, with quality produce and a relaxed pace.

Eating, drinking and music: book the restaurant ahead, as Berliners fill it on weekend evenings, and check the concert programme for your stay; the lobby performances are one of the most memorable things about staying here. The bar is a good place to start or end an evening in Kreuzberg, whether you are heading on to the cocktail bars of the area, a club, or the bars along the canal.

Location and fit: Kreuzberg is not the place for those who want quiet streets and early nights, as Oranienstrasse is lively until late, and the area around Kottbusser Tor can feel gritty. But for couples, music lovers and repeat visitors who want to live like Berliners, it is ideal. Museum Island is about fifteen minutes by U-Bahn and on foot, the Jewish Museum and Checkpoint Charlie are a short ride away, and the East Side Gallery is just across the river in Friedrichshain.