Recoleta

Alvear Palace Hotel

★★★★★

If one hotel sums up the Belle Époque dream of Buenos Aires, it is the Alvear Palace. It stands on the corner of Avenida Alvear and Ayacucho in the heart of Recoleta, on the most elegant street in the city, lined with French-style palaces, embassies and couture boutiques, and since it was transformed into its current form in 1932 it has been the address of choice for visiting royalty, heads of state, film stars and old Argentine families celebrating weddings and anniversaries. It has belonged to the Leading Hotels of the World since 1993 and it consistently ranks among the best hotels in South America. Everything about it is unapologetically grand. The lobby is a sweep of marble, gilt, crystal chandeliers and fresh flowers; the corridors are hushed and carpeted; and the 207 rooms and suites are decorated in a classic French style inspired by Louis XV and Louis XVI, with silk fabrics, antique-style furniture and marble bathrooms. A good share of the inventory is made up of suites, and the newer Lounge Suites on the tenth and eleventh floors offer a more contemporary take for guests who like their luxury less ornate. Service is the hotel's real calling card: polished, discreet and old-fashioned in the best sense, with staff who remember names and a level of attention that few modern hotels attempt. L'Orangerie, a glass-roofed winter garden of a restaurant, is famous for its afternoon tea and weekend brunch, both social institutions for porteños; the Lobby Bar is a classic place for a cocktail; and the Alvear Roof Bar offers views over the Recoleta rooftops. The Spa and Fitness Center on the eleventh floor includes a heated indoor pool with views across the city, a rarity in central Buenos Aires.

Who it suits: honeymooners, milestone travellers and anyone who wants the classic grand-hotel experience in the most beautiful part of the city. The location is superb for sightseeing. Recoleta Cemetery, the Basílica del Pilar and the weekend craft fair of Plaza Francia are about five minutes away on foot; the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is a little further; El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a short walk along Avenida Santa Fe; and the Palermo parks and MALBA are a pleasant walk or a short taxi ride. The surrounding streets are among the safest and most pleasant in Buenos Aires for an evening stroll, with cafés and restaurants under the giant trees. It is less ideal if you want to be in the middle of the Palermo nightlife or the old-town atmosphere of San Telmo, though taxis are quick and inexpensive.

Living in it: request a room on a higher floor for light and views, or a Lounge Suite if you prefer contemporary design. Book afternoon tea in L'Orangerie for your first full day, as it is one of the most enjoyable rituals in the city and popular with locals, and reserve the Sunday brunch well ahead. The rooftop bar and the eleventh-floor pool are relaxing escapes after a day of walking. The concierge team is among the best connected in Buenos Aires, able to arrange private guides, Teatro Colón tickets, tango shows and hard-to-get tables at the city's best parrillas.

Value: rates sit at the top of the Buenos Aires market, often in the region of several hundred dollars a night for an entry-level room, with suites far above. Foreign visitors paying with a foreign card are generally exempt from Argentine VAT on accommodation, which helps, so check how your rate is quoted. For a once-in-a-lifetime trip, or simply for the most Buenos Aires of all hotel experiences, it is worth every peso.