Recoleta (Avenida Callao)

Palladio Hotel Buenos Aires, MGallery

★★★★★

Palladio is a polished, mid-sized hotel in one of the most elegant stretches of Avenida Callao, the broad avenue that runs from the Congress building to Recoleta, lined with grand early twentieth-century apartment buildings. It belongs to Accor's MGallery collection, the group's line of boutique hotels with individual stories, and its design pays tribute to the architecture of Buenos Aires, mixing classic references with contemporary comfort. The location is one of its strengths: Recoleta's cafés, galleries and leafy squares are a short walk north, Recoleta Cemetery, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and El Ateneo Grand Splendid are within easy reach, and the Teatro Colón and the theatres of Avenida Corrientes are a few blocks south. The hotel has 113 rooms, each with a view of Avenida Callao, decorated in a refined, warm style with good beds and marble bathrooms. On the roof, a heated outdoor pool offers a place to unwind above the traffic, with views across the rooftops and cupolas of the neighbourhood. Dining is at the Negresco Bistró, which serves Mediterranean cuisine with a seasonal menu and a list of local wines, and the Negresco Bar is a sociable spot for a late-afternoon cocktail or a glass of Argentine wine. The Secret Spa and wellness area adds treatments and a quiet place to rest after a day of walking. The service is attentive and well organised, as you would expect from the brand, and guests can earn and spend points in Accor's loyalty programme. It is an excellent choice for travellers who want the Recoleta address and a touch of luxury without paying the prices of the grand palace hotels of Avenida Alvear.

Who it suits: couples, culture lovers and travellers on a comfortable budget who want to walk to Recoleta and the Teatro Colón, and Accor loyalty members. The rooms all face the avenue, which is lively by day, so ask for a higher floor for less noise. It is not a resort, and families may find standard rooms snug, but the rooftop pool is a welcome treat for everyone in summer.

Living in it: start a Recoleta day on foot with the cemetery and the free Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, stop at El Ateneo Grand Splendid on Avenida Santa Fe, and return for a swim on the roof before an evening at the Colón or dinner nearby. The avenue is well served by buses and the Subte line D at Callao, and taxis are easy to find. Book a spa treatment ahead, as the spa is small, and reserve a table at the bistro if you want to eat in on a weekend.

Value: rates are upper-mid-range for Buenos Aires, well below the palace hotels a few blocks north, with frequent promotions for direct bookings. Foreign guests paying with a foreign card are generally exempt from VAT on accommodation, so confirm how the rate is quoted.