The Little Mermaid and Kastellet

The Little Mermaid is the most famous statue in Denmark and, by common agreement, the most surprising: almost everyone remarks on how small she is. She sits on a rock at the water's edge on the Langelinie promenade, gazing out to sea, a bronze figure from Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tale of the mermaid who gave up her voice for love. The statue was a gift to the city from the brewer Carl Jacobsen, the founder of the Glyptotek, who had been moved by a ballet of Andersen's story at the Royal Theatre; it was made by the sculptor Edvard Eriksen and unveiled on 23 August 1913. The ballerina Ellen Price inspired the face, and the sculptor's wife, Eline, modelled the body. Over the years, the mermaid has suffered more than her share of attacks: she has lost her head twice, had an arm sawn off and been painted over in protest, and each time she has been restored. Seeing her is free, at any time of year, but the shore around her rock is crowded with tour groups for much of the day, so come early in the morning, or see her from the water on a canal tour. The best reason to come out here, though, is the walk. Right beside Langelinie stands Kastellet, the Citadel, one of the best-preserved star-shaped fortresses in Northern Europe, built in the seventeenth century to defend the city. Its grassy ramparts, moats, red-painted barracks, church and windmill make it a beautiful, peaceful place for a stroll, and it is still an active military area, so keep to the paths and respect the signs. On the way, the Gefion Fountain, with the goddess driving her oxen, and the English church of St Alban's make a dramatic group by the park. From here, it is an easy walk back to Amalienborg and Nyhavn along the harbour.

The statue's fame grew with the city's tourism. The mermaid became a symbol of Copenhagen in the twentieth century, travelled once to a world exhibition abroad, and has inspired countless copies and parodies around the world. Locals are fond of her, with an affectionate sense of humour about her size and the crowds; a little further along the harbour, a group of strange, modern sculptures known as the Genetically Modified Paradise, including a distorted version of the mermaid, offers an ironic comment on the original. Andersen's story itself is darker and more moving than the film versions, and the statue captures the moment of longing at its heart.

How to visit well: take the train or metro to Osterport station and walk about fifteen minutes through Kastellet or along the harbour to the statue. Arrive early in the morning, before the tour buses, for a quiet moment and a photograph without a crowd, or come in the evening light. Then walk the ramparts of Kastellet, which take about half an hour to circle, and continue along Langelinie for views of the harbour, the cruise ships and the Opera House across the water. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a layer, as the waterfront can be windy.

This corner of the city fits neatly into a morning of royal and harbour sights. Walk south from Kastellet past the Gefion Fountain and along the waterfront to Amalienborg in time for the changing of the guard at noon, then continue to Nyhavn for lunch. Alternatively, combine the mermaid with a canal tour, which passes her from the water, and spend the time you save on Kastellet and the Design Museum in nearby Bredgade.