The Lakes / Vesterbro

Manon Les Suites

★★★★★

Manon Les Suites is the most unexpected hotel in Copenhagen: a lush, bohemian, plant-filled retreat built around an indoor swimming pool, a few minutes from the city centre. It belongs to the Danish Guldsmeden group, known for its eco-minded boutique hotels with a relaxed, Balinese-inspired style, and it stands on Gyldenlovesgade, near the Lakes, the chain of old reservoirs where Copenhageners walk and run, on the edge of Vesterbro and close to Orstedsparken and Torvehallerne. All 87 rooms are suites, in a style that blends Nordic calm with tropical warmth: natural materials, dark wood, rattan, crisp white linens and plenty of plants, with organic toiletries and the group's focus on sustainability. The centrepiece of the hotel is the Junglefish Pool, an indoor pool in a lush, jungle-like setting of hanging plants and greenery, open to guests and the city's favourite hotel pool for a swim on a grey day; the hotel also sells spa day passes to non-guests. On the roof, there is a lounge with an outdoor area and skyline views, a small spa with a sauna, a steam bath and a cold-water bucket shower, and Chapung, the rooftop restaurant. Downstairs, Bar Libelulle, the cocktail bar, is a cosy spot for an evening drink. The spa is a facilities-only space, without massages or treatments. Rates are upscale but generally below those of the city's luxury hotels, and suites make it good for longer stays and couples who like space. The location is a short walk from the old town: Torvehallerne and Norreport station are about ten minutes away, and Tivoli, Central Station and City Hall Square are reachable on foot or by a short bus ride.

The atmosphere is the reason to come. Walking into Manon, with the sound of water from the pool and the green of the plants, feels like stepping out of Scandinavia for a moment, and the hotel is a welcome antidote to the minimalist design that dominates the city. The suites are comfortable and quiet, with good beds and a sense of calm, and the pool is a joy, especially in winter.

Eating, drinking and relaxing: Chapung, on the roof, is a stylish setting for dinner with views, and the rooftop lounge and terrace are popular for drinks. Bar Libelulle downstairs is intimate and well suited to a nightcap. The rooftop sauna, steam bath and bucket shower are perfect after a day of walking, though the spa does not offer massages.

Who it suits: couples, friends and wellness lovers who want a playful, relaxing hotel with a pool, and travellers who like to be near the Lakes and the neighbourhoods of Vesterbro and Norrebro rather than in the tourist centre. Families can enjoy the pool and the suite space. Travellers who want classic Danish design or a historic building should look at Sanders or 71 Nyhavn. Non-guests can buy a spa day pass for the pool and the rooftop facilities, which tells you how popular they are, so swim early in the morning or later in the evening for the calmest water.