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Greece

Crete

Crete is the largest of the Greek islands and the one that feels most like a country of its own, with its own dialect, music, cooking and a history that reaches back to the first great civilisation of Europe.

Four thousand years ago the Minoans built palaces, painted frescoes of bull-leapers and lilies and traded across the Mediterranean, and their world still lies close to the surface: the reconstructed halls of Knossos sit on the edge of Heraklion, the finest Minoan treasures fill the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, and the palace of Phaistos looks out over the Messara plain in the south. Later centuries left Venetian harbours, fortresses and lighthouses, Ottoman mosques and fountains, and two very different cities. Heraklion is the busy capital, a working port with a great museum, lively food scene and a Venetian fortress at the harbour mouth. Chania, two and a half hours west, is the island’s most beautiful town, its old harbour ringed by pastel houses beneath the White Mountains. Between them stretch olive groves, vineyards and mountain villages where food is still made the old way. This guide shows what to book, what is open in the quieter months, how to divide your time between the two cities and where to stay, from a Venetian mansion in Chania to good-value rooms near the museum in Heraklion.

Don't miss

Things to do in Crete

Palace of Knossos

The great Minoan palace on the edge of Heraklion, home of the legends of King Minos and the Minotaur, with painted columns, royal apartments and the famous Throne Room.

2 to 3 hours$$Tickets on Tiqets →

Palace of Phaistos

The second great Minoan palace of Crete, set on a ridge above the Messara plain in the south, with grand stairways, open courts and views to Mount Psiloritis.

1.5 to 2 hours$Official site →

Koules Fortress

The Venetian sea fortress guarding the old harbour of Heraklion, with winged lions of Saint Mark on its walls, vaulted halls inside and a rooftop walk with views over the port.

45 minutes to 1 hour$Official site →

Cretaquarium Thalassocosmos

A large public aquarium on the coast east of Heraklion devoted to the life of the Mediterranean, open every day of the year and a favourite with families on grey days.

1.5 to 2 hours$Official site →

Where to stay

Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.

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Casa Delfino Hotel and Spa

Topanas, Chania Old Town

A boutique hotel in a seventeenth-century Venetian mansion a few steps from Chania’s old harbour, with a pebbled courtyard, a rooftop terrace over the water and a small spa.

Rates on Expedia →
$$$

GDM Megaron Historical Monument Hotel

Old Harbour, Heraklion

Heraklion’s top hotel, a five-star listed building from the 1920s facing the old harbour, with sea-view balconies, a rooftop pool in season and a hammam and health club.

Rates on Expedia →
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Lato Boutique Hotel

Old Harbour, Heraklion

A stylish four-star hotel above Heraklion’s old harbour, open all year, with sea-view rooms facing the Venetian fortress, a rooftop restaurant and a central, walkable location.

Rates on Expedia →
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Porto Veneziano Hotel

Venetian Harbour, Chania

A friendly waterfront hotel on the quieter eastern side of Chania’s Venetian harbour, with sea and mountain views, a garden, a seafront restaurant and breakfast included.

Rates on Expedia →
$

Kastro Hotel

Historic Centre, Heraklion

A simple, friendly three-star hotel in central Heraklion, five minutes on foot from the Archaeological Museum, with balconies, a breakfast buffet and good-value rates all year.

Rates on Expedia →

Crete guides

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