Denver Travel Guide
Eating and Drinking in Denver
What to eat and where to drink — Colorado green chile, bison and lamb, the food halls that make grazing easy, Denver's beer story from Coors to the brewpub boom, and the cocktail bars worth a detour.
Denver's food scene has grown up fast. A generation ago it was a steak-and-potatoes cow town with a handful of Mexican institutions; today it has a Michelin Guide presence, nationally recognized chefs and a food hall in nearly every neighborhood. But its real calling card is beer. Here is how to eat and drink your way through the Mile High City.
Start with green chile. If Denver has a signature dish, it is green chile — not the New Mexico style, but a Colorado version, usually a thick, pork-studded stew used to smother burritos, enchiladas and just about anything else. Every local has a favorite spot, and debates about Pueblo chiles versus Hatch chiles are serious. Order a smothered burrito at a neighborhood Mexican restaurant and you will understand the city's devotion. The Denver omelet, with ham, peppers and onions, is a breakfast-menu classic, and brunch is practically a sport here, with long weekend lines at popular spots.
The flavors of the West. Colorado lamb is prized by chefs across the country, and bison and elk appear on many menus, from burgers to steaks. Rocky Mountain oysters — fried bull calf testicles — are the city's famous dare, served at old-school steakhouses and at the ballpark. In summer, look for Palisade peaches from the Western Slope and Olathe sweet corn at farmers markets; they are the state's two great seasonal treats. Southwestern and Mexican food runs deep, and the stretch of Federal Boulevard on the west side is one of the city's most rewarding corridors for authentic tacos and more.
Food halls make it easy. Denver loves a food hall, and they are the best way for visitors to sample many kitchens at once. Denver Central Market in RiNo, set in a restored warehouse, offers everything from pizza to pastries to a bar in the middle. Union Station's Great Hall is ringed by restaurants and bars, making it a fine place to eat on arrival. McGregor Square near Coors Field adds a plaza and dining options beside the ballpark. Each RiNo block seems to hold another, so wander and graze.
The beer capital. Denver calls itself the craft beer capital of America, and it has a strong case. The Coors Brewery in Golden, founded in 1873, is one of the largest single-site breweries in the world, and its tour remains a classic. The modern craft scene began in 1988 when Wynkoop Brewing Company opened in LoDo as Colorado's first brewpub; one of its founders, John Hickenlooper, went on to become mayor, governor and senator. Today there are dozens of breweries within city limits, with the densest cluster in RiNo, and every fall Denver hosts the Great American Beer Festival, one of the largest beer events in the country. Start with Colorado taps at Union Station's Terminal Bar, then crawl RiNo's taprooms on foot.
Cocktails and classic bars. Denver's cocktail scene is excellent. Death & Co Denver, in the lobby of the Ramble Hotel in RiNo, is the first outpost of the influential New York bar and one of the best-looking rooms in the city. The Cruise Room at the Oxford Hotel, an art deco gem modeled on an ocean-liner lounge, opened just after Prohibition and still pours a superb martini. The Brown Palace serves afternoon tea in its atrium and has several bars of its own. And Larimer Square, strung with lights, is the city's most atmospheric block for an evening drink.
Where to eat by neighborhood. LoDo and Larimer Square have the city's highest concentration of restaurants, from steakhouses to chef-driven newcomers. RiNo is the place for food halls, breweries and creative small plates. The Highlands, across the river from downtown, are a lively mix of patios and neighborhood restaurants. Cherry Creek leans upscale. South Broadway is the place for dive bars, music venues and late-night eats. Colfax Avenue, a long and gritty commercial strip, rewards adventurous eaters with diners and global cuisines.
A note on altitude and drinking. Alcohol hits harder at elevation, especially when you are dehydrated and still adjusting. Drink water between beers, eat well, and pace yourself on your first night. Sunshine and dry air add to the effect.
Practical tips. Popular restaurants book up on weekends, so reserve ahead for dinner, especially in LoDo and the Highlands. Brunch lines are long, so arrive early. Many breweries welcome families and dogs in the daytime. And when you head to the mountains, pack snacks and water, since dining options thin out quickly beyond the foothills.
A one-day eating plan. Breakfast: a smothered breakfast burrito with green chile, the most Denver way to start the day. Lunch: graze a food hall in RiNo, then walk the murals. Afternoon: a brewery flight, with water between pours. Evening: dinner in LoDo or the Highlands, then a nightcap in a historic bar — the Cruise Room for a martini or the Great Hall at Union Station for one last Colorado beer. If you are heading to Golden, end the Coors tour with the sample and then explore the town's independent breweries for comparison; the contrast between one of the largest breweries in the world and a tiny taproom down the street says a lot about Colorado's beer culture.
For non-drinkers and families. Denver's breweries and food halls are often family-friendly during the day, with plenty of non-alcoholic options and kombucha and coffee roasters in many neighborhoods. Food halls are especially good with kids, letting everyone choose their own meal.