Howth Cliff Path Loop

Howth is the antidote to city sightseeing, and it is astonishingly easy to reach. The DART suburban train runs from the city centre along the curve of Dublin Bay to Howth station, about half an hour away, and the moment you step out you are in a working fishing harbour, with trawlers unloading, seals bobbing by the piers and the green bulk of Howth Head rising behind the village. The Cliff Path Loop, waymarked with green arrows, starts right at the station. It follows the harbour front, climbs past the last houses and then swings out onto the open headland, where a narrow path runs along the cliffs through heather and gorse above the sea. The views widen with every step: Ireland's Eye, a rocky island just offshore with its own seabird colonies, the long shape of Lambay Island to the north, and, as you round the Nose of Howth, the whole sweep of Dublin Bay with the Wicklow Mountains beyond. The Baily Lighthouse, perched on a rocky spur at the south-east tip, comes into view below, one of the most photographed scenes on the east coast. The loop then climbs to the car park at the Summit, where there is a pub and a café, before returning to the village on a higher, parallel path. The full loop is about 7.8 kilometres, takes about two hours and involves around 130 metres of climbing — moderate rather than hard, but rough underfoot in places, so walking shoes or boots are wise. It is free, and it is part of Dublin's coastal trail network.

Doing it well: catch a mid-morning DART from Connolly, Tara Street or Pearse station and sit on the right-hand side heading out for views of the bay. Start the loop while the light is good, allowing time for photographs and for the weather, which on the headland can turn quickly from bright to blustery. Stay on the marked path and away from the cliff edge, particularly in wind or after rain, and keep dogs on leads near nesting seabirds in spring and summer. If two hours feels too long, walk out along the cliff path as far as the Baily viewpoint and return the same way, or shorten the route by cutting up to the Summit. More ambitious walkers can choose the longer Bog of Frogs loop, which covers more of the headland's interior.

The village: Howth is a pleasure in itself. Walk out along the West Pier for the seafood restaurants, fishmongers and fish-and-chip counters, watch for seals waiting near the fishing boats, and stroll the East Pier to its lighthouse for views of Ireland's Eye; boat trips run out to the island in the warmer months. A market near the station sells crafts and food at weekends, and the grounds around Howth Castle, a short walk from the station, are known for their rhododendrons in late spring. Eating fresh fish by the harbour after the walk is the essential end to the day.

When to go: any dry day works, and weekday mornings are quietest, but Howth is busy at weekends in fine weather, when half of Dublin has the same idea. Long summer evenings let you walk late and catch sunset over the bay. In winter, start early to finish in daylight and pack waterproofs. If you have only one free half-day outside the city, this is the one to take — the sea air, the cliffs and the harbour are the side of Dublin that most visitors never expect.