Jameson Distillery Bow St.

Before Irish whiskey's modern revival, Dublin was one of the great whiskey cities of the world, and Bow Street in Smithfield was its heart. John Jameson took over the distillery here in 1780, and for nearly two centuries it produced the whiskey that carried his name around the world, until production moved to a new, larger distillery at Midleton in County Cork in the 1970s. The old site is now the brand's Dublin home and one of the city's most enjoyable visits. The core experience is a guided tour of about forty minutes, led by enthusiastic, quick-witted guides who explain how Irish whiskey differs from Scotch — triple distillation, a mix of malted and unmalted barley, and the smoothness that follows — and walk you through the history of the Jameson family, the decline of Dublin distilling and the revival of the last few decades. It finishes with a comparative tasting that pits Jameson against an American bourbon and a Scotch, which is surprisingly fun and genuinely educational, and a drink at the bar. For those who want more, there are longer premium experiences: a whiskey blending class where you make your own small bottle to take home, a cocktail-making class, a whiskey and chocolate pairing, and a hidden tasting room. The building mixes old brick and timber with a bright, modern fit-out, and the bar, open to visitors without a tour, is one of the busiest in the area at weekends. Tours are timed, and weekend afternoons sell out, so book ahead.

Which experience to choose: first-timers and casual drinkers should take the standard guided tour with tasting; it is short, lively and tells the essential story. Whiskey enthusiasts get more from the blending class, which explains how different casks and spirits are married to create a house style, and leaves you with a bottle of your own creation. The cocktail class suits groups and couples looking for a social evening. Tours run in several languages at set times, and age rules apply to tastings, so under-18s get a soft drink. Opening hours stretch into the evening, especially on Fridays and Saturdays, which makes Bow Street a good late-afternoon stop after museums close.

Is it a brand experience? Yes, unashamedly, and the tasting is designed to show Jameson in the best light. But the guides are good storytellers, the history of Dublin whiskey is fascinating, and the old distillery's location is part of the pleasure. If you want an independent alternative, the newer distilleries in the Liberties produce whiskey on site today, and the Irish Whiskey Museum near Trinity covers all brands; whiskey lovers can easily make a day of comparing them. If you are visiting the Guinness Storehouse too, combination tickets bundle the two big-name experiences together.

Around it: Smithfield is a broad cobbled square on the north side of the Liffey, a short walk across the river from Temple Bar and Christ Church Cathedral, with the Luas red line stopping at its edge. The old distillery chimney on the square has been converted into a viewing tower. The neighbourhood has some of Dublin's best traditional music pubs — the Cobblestone, a few minutes away on King Street North, is famous for its nightly sessions — and Stoneybatter, just north, is one of the city's most likeable villages, full of independent cafés and restaurants. Combine a late-afternoon tour, dinner in Stoneybatter and an evening of trad at the Cobblestone for one of the best nights out in Dublin. If the tour leaves you curious about how whiskey is actually made, cross the river to the Teeling Whiskey Distillery in the Liberties, about twenty minutes on foot, which distils on site: Jameson tells the story, Teeling shows the process, and together they explain how Dublin whiskey fell and rose again. Look out, too, for the Jameson family motto, Sine Metu, meaning without fear, which appears on the bottles and around the building.