Leith and the Shore

Leith is a different city from the Edinburgh of the castle and the Royal Mile, and that is exactly why to go. For centuries it was Scotland's main port, an independent burgh until it was merged with Edinburgh in 1920, and its character remains its own: harbour-side, working-class in its roots, multicultural and proud of it. The heart of the visit is the Shore, the old quayside where the Water of Leith meets the docks. Its stone warehouses and merchants' houses now hold some of the best restaurants and pubs in Scotland, from relaxed seafood bars and old-school taverns to acclaimed fine dining, including Michelin-starred cooking. On a sunny evening, tables spill out along the water and the place feels almost continental. Nearby you can see the Signal Tower, the Custom House and the old dock basins. A little north, Ocean Terminal is home to the Royal Yacht Britannia, the most visited attraction in Leith, and beyond lies Newhaven, the former fishing village with a small harbour and lighthouse, where seafood restaurants look out over the Firth of Forth. Leith Walk, the long road connecting Leith to the city centre, is lined with independent restaurants, cafes and shops serving cuisines from around the world. Leith Links, the park in the east of the district, claims an important place in golf history, with some of the earliest recorded rules of the game drawn up there in 1744. Since the tram extension opened, getting here is simple: trams run from the city centre down Leith Walk to the Shore and on to Ocean Terminal and Newhaven. The neighbourhood is free to explore.

How to spend a day: take the tram from Princes Street or York Place to Newhaven, walk round the harbour and along the waterfront, then continue to Ocean Terminal for the Royal Yacht Britannia, which takes a couple of hours. In the afternoon, walk or ride back to the Shore for a late lunch or an early dinner, browse the small shops and pubs, and finish with a stroll up Leith Walk or a tram back to town. Walkers can arrive the scenic way instead, following the Water of Leith walkway down from Dean Village and Stockbridge to the Shore, roughly the last stretch of the river's route to the sea, though some diversions apply on parts of the path.

Eating and drinking: this is the reason many locals come. The Shore and its side streets have a concentration of strong restaurants that rivals anywhere in the city, and booking is essential for the best-known tables, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. For something more casual, Leith Walk and the streets around it offer excellent cafes, bakeries, natural wine bars and international food at lower prices. There is a farmers market at weekends, and plenty of traditional pubs where you will be drinking alongside locals rather than other visitors.

Is it for everyone? Leith is a real neighbourhood rather than a polished visitor district: some streets are plain, and parts are still being redeveloped. That is part of its appeal. It also makes a good alternative base, with floating and waterfront hotels, generally lower room rates than the Old Town and a fast tram into the centre. For first-time visitors, combine it with Britannia for a half-day; for food lovers, make an evening of it. Trams run late into the evening, so there is no need to rush dinner, and the ride back up Leith Walk is a quick, easy end to the night. A taxi is the fallback after the last tram.