Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument

Princes Street Gardens are the green heart of Edinburgh, and you will cross them whether you plan to or not. They fill the valley between the Old Town and the New Town, below the cliffs of Castle Rock, on the bed of the Nor Loch, a polluted body of water that was drained as the New Town was built. The Mound divides them in two. West Princes Street Gardens are the larger and greener half: lawns rising steeply to the castle, the gilded cast-iron Ross Fountain, beautifully restored, in front of the castle crags, the Ross Bandstand used for concerts and festival events, and at the Mound end the floral clock, the first of its kind, replanted in a new design each summer. At the far west end, St Cuthbert's Church and its old graveyard sit beneath the castle. East Princes Street Gardens are smaller and busier, framed by the Scottish National Gallery and Waverley Station, and in winter they host the Christmas market. Their landmark is the Scott Monument, the enormous Victorian Gothic spire raised in the 1840s to Sir Walter Scott, the novelist who did more than anyone to shape the romantic image of Scotland. Sixty-one metres high, it has a marble statue of Scott with his dog Maida at its base, dozens of carved characters from his novels on its niches, and 287 steps up narrowing spiral stairs to a series of viewing galleries. From the top, the view straight across to the Old Town and the castle is extraordinary. The gardens are free and open by day; the monument is run by Culture Edinburgh with tour-style visits and a small fee.

Climbing the Scott Monument: the stairs are steep, narrow and get tighter as you rise, with the final section to the top gallery especially cramped. It is not suitable for anyone uneasy with heights or confined spaces, and there is no lift; the lower Museum Room, with its stained glass, is the first stop for those who prefer to go only part way. Visitor numbers on the stairs are limited for safety, which is why it works through scheduled visits, so check the Culture Edinburgh page and book where you can, especially in summer. The reward is the most dramatic close-up view of the Old Town skyline in the city, with the castle, the Balmoral clock tower and Calton Hill all around you.

Seasons in the gardens: in spring and summer the lawns fill with picnickers and the floral clock is in bloom. In August the festivals take over, with events in the gardens and fireworks from the castle at the end of the season. From mid-November into early January, Edinburgh's Christmas fills East Princes Street Gardens with a market, a big wheel and other rides, and the family funfair spreads into the West gardens; it is atmospheric but very crowded at weekends. The gardens close at night, with gates locked after dark, so plan evening walks along Princes Street itself.

How to use them: the gardens are the best shortcut and the best rest stop in central Edinburgh. Walk from Waverley through the East gardens and up the Mound to the Royal Mile, or from the West End along the paths below the castle for the classic views. Benches carry dedications to past lovers of the city, and on a sunny day there is nowhere better for a takeaway lunch. Pair a visit with the free Scottish National Gallery, which opens directly onto the gardens, and you have a near-perfect free half-day in the middle of town.