Victoria Street and the Grassmarket

Victoria Street is the most photographed street in Edinburgh, and the Grassmarket below it is one of the liveliest squares in the Old Town. Together they make a perfect free hour or two. Victoria Street was built in the 1830s as part of the improvements that cut new, gentler routes through the medieval city, replacing the steep, zig-zagging West Bow. It curves downhill from George IV Bridge in a tight arc, and its two levels give it a theatrical look: brightly painted shopfronts at street level, and Victoria Terrace above, a raised walkway over the shops. The colours, the cobbles and the curve make it an obvious photograph, and it is often said to have inspired Diagon Alley; J.K. Rowling has never confirmed that, but Harry Potter-themed shops are now part of the scene, alongside a cheese shop, independent boutiques, cafes and restaurants. At the bottom the street opens into the Grassmarket, a long open square beneath the cliffs of Castle Rock that was a livestock and grain market from the fifteenth century. It also had a darker role. Public executions took place here, including those of many Covenanters in the seventeenth century, remembered by a circular memorial in the paving, and pubs such as the Last Drop and Maggie Dickson's play on the history. The Porteous Riot of 1736 erupted here too. Today the square is lined with pubs, restaurants and small hotels, with outdoor tables in summer and a weekend buzz all year. At the west end, the Vennel steps climb beside a surviving stretch of the Flodden Wall to one of the most famous framed views of the castle.

How to explore: start at the top on George IV Bridge, a few steps from the Royal Mile, and walk slowly down Victoria Street, climbing the steps up to Victoria Terrace for the view back along the curve. At the bottom, cross the Grassmarket, look for the Covenanters' memorial at the east end and the plaques that tell the square's stories, then walk to the west end and climb the Vennel for the castle view. From there it is a short walk to Greyfriars Kirkyard via Candlemaker Row, or back up to the castle esplanade. For a longer loop, continue along the Cowgate, the old lower street running east beneath the bridges, which is quiet by day and loud with bars at night.

Timing and crowds: Victoria Street is busy from mid-morning, and in summer and during the festivals the pavements are packed with people photographing the same view. For an empty street, come early in the morning, when the light is soft and the shops are still shuttered. The Grassmarket comes into its own in the evening, when the pubs fill and the castle is floodlit above the square. In winter the cobbles can be slippery after rain, so wear shoes with grip. Some of the Grassmarket's pubs are lively and loud on weekend nights, which matters if you are choosing a hotel here.

Eating and shopping: this is one of the best areas in the Old Town for a casual lunch or a pint, with options from traditional pubs to modern restaurants, and the independent shops on Victoria Street are better than the tartan-heavy gift shops of the Royal Mile. It is also an excellent base: the hotels around the Grassmarket put you a few minutes' walk below the castle, though every route out climbs a hill. Allow an hour for a wander, longer if you stop to eat, and combine it with Greyfriars and the National Museum of Scotland, both just round the corner.