Edinburgh Travel Guide
Eating and Drinking in Edinburgh
What to eat in Edinburgh beyond the tourist menus — the Scottish classics worth trying, seafood in Leith, markets, afternoon tea, and how to approach whisky without a lecture — plus where to eat near each sight.
Edinburgh's food scene has changed beyond recognition in a generation. The city now has a cluster of Michelin-recognised restaurants, a serious seafood culture built on Scotland's extraordinary larder, a flourishing café and brunch scene, and some of the best whisky and cocktail bars in Britain. The catch is that the places most visitors walk past first — the Royal Mile's picture-menu restaurants — are rarely the best of it. Here is how to eat well.
The Scottish classics. Try haggis at least once — the spiced mix of sheep's offal, oatmeal, onion and suet is far better than its reputation, and it is traditionally served with neeps and tatties (mashed swede and potato), often with a whisky sauce. Vegetarian haggis is widely available and good. Cullen skink, a thick, creamy soup of smoked haddock, potato and onion from the north-east coast, is the perfect lunch on a cold day. Scottish smoked salmon, hand-dived scallops, langoustines and mussels appear on menus across the city, as does Scotch beef and lamb. For dessert, cranachan layers raspberries, whipped cream, honey, toasted oats and a splash of whisky. A full Scottish breakfast adds black pudding, tattie scones and often haggis to the usual fry-up. And at least once, have a proper afternoon tea — the Palm Court at the Balmoral is the classic, with a harpist.
Where to eat by area. Near the castle and the upper Royal Mile, prices are high and quality uneven; the Grassmarket and Victoria Street below have better options, from pubs to bistros, and the Witchery is the special-occasion splurge. Around the National Museum and the Southside, the streets near Nicolson Street, Forrest Road and the university are full of good-value cafés and international restaurants. The New Town, especially George Street, Thistle Street and the streets around St Andrew Square, has the city's densest concentration of smart restaurants and cocktail bars — the Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse, under a domed banking-hall ceiling, is worth booking for the room alone. Stockbridge is the brunch capital, with independent cafés along Raeburn Place and a Sunday market. And Leith, especially the Shore, is the place for seafood and for some of the city's most acclaimed restaurants, many of them in converted dockside buildings.
Markets. The Edinburgh Farmers' Market sets up on Castle Terrace below the castle on Saturdays, with Scottish produce, meat, cheese and hot food. The Stockbridge Market runs on Sundays, with street food, baking and crafts. Both are good for a cheap, characterful lunch. During Edinburgh's Christmas, East Princes Street Gardens fills with around seventy stalls of food, drink and gifts.
Whisky, without the lecture. You do not need to know anything to enjoy whisky in Edinburgh — bartenders in good whisky bars love helping newcomers. Ask for a flight from different regions: a light, floral Lowland, a fruity Speyside, a robust Highland and a smoky, peaty Islay will show you the range in four sips. Add a few drops of water to open up the aromas. For a structured introduction, the Scotch Whisky Experience at the top of the Royal Mile runs guided tours with a tasting and shows off a vault of more than three thousand bottles. The Balmoral's SCOTCH bar lists over five hundred whiskies, and Hotel du Vin's Whisky Snug is a cosy fireside alternative. The city also has its own working distillery at Holyrood.
Pubs and bars. Edinburgh's traditional pubs are among its great pleasures, from Victorian palaces with carved bars and stained glass in the New Town to tiny, ancient howffs in the Old Town closes and the historic inn at Duddingston below Arthur's Seat. Many have live folk music some evenings. The cocktail scene is excellent and concentrated in the New Town and Leith. Scotland also has a thriving craft beer and gin scene, and you will find Scottish gins in almost every bar.
Vegetarian, vegan and dietary needs. Edinburgh is an easy city for plant-based and allergy-aware eating. Vegetarian haggis is on most traditional menus, many cafés and brunch spots in Stockbridge, the Southside and Leith have extensive vegan options, and restaurants are generally well used to handling allergies and gluten-free requests. Mention requirements when booking, especially for tasting menus, and ask about whisky sauces and stocks, which are not always vegetarian.
Booking and budgets. Book dinner ahead at weekends, in August and in December — the best restaurants fill weeks in advance during the festivals and the Christmas season. Lunch menus at good restaurants are often excellent value. A service charge is frequently added to the bill; if not, around ten per cent is customary. Many restaurants take cards only. For a cheaper meal, pub food, cafés and the Southside's international restaurants are reliable.
A day of eating well. Start with a Scottish breakfast or a Stockbridge brunch. Take a bowl of Cullen skink for lunch near the museum. Book afternoon tea in the Palm Court if it is a special trip. Spend the early evening on a whisky flight in a proper bar, then head to Leith for seafood on the Shore — and walk it off the next morning on Arthur's Seat.