Edinburgh Travel Guide
Where to Stay in Edinburgh
A neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to choosing your Edinburgh base — atmosphere versus calm, hills versus flat streets, and the hotels that make each area work, from the Witchery to Motel One.
In Edinburgh, location matters more than in most cities, not because distances are long but because they are steep. A hotel ten minutes from the Royal Mile on a map might be ten minutes of stairs. The good news is that the centre is compact, and almost anywhere between the West End, the Old Town and the east end of Princes Street will put the main sights within walking distance. The question is what atmosphere you want around you when you step out of the door.
The Old Town: atmosphere first. Staying on or near the Royal Mile puts you in the medieval heart of the city, among the closes, cathedral, castle and underground streets. It is the most atmospheric base and the most convenient for first-timers, but it is also the busiest and noisiest, especially in August and at weekends, and nearly every street is on a slope. For pure romance, the Witchery by the Castle has nine theatrical suites at the castle gates. For style and buzz, Virgin Hotels Edinburgh sits where Victoria Street meets the Cowgate, steps from the Grassmarket's restaurants. On the quieter Southside, Hotel du Vin occupies a 1743 former asylum by Greyfriars and the National Museum, with a bistro and a whisky snug. Choose the Old Town if you want to walk out into history and do not mind crowds and cobbles.
Princes Street and Waverley: the hub. The strip around the east end of Princes Street and Waverley station is the most practical base in the city. Trains, the airport tram and buses are all at hand, the Old Town is a short climb across the valley, and the New Town spreads behind. The Balmoral, above the station under its famous clock tower, is the grand-hotel choice, with castle views, a pool spa and some of the city's best dining and drinking. On Market Street below the Old Town, Motel One Edinburgh-Royal offers stylish compact rooms at a fraction of the price, a few minutes from the platforms. This is the best area for rail travellers, short stays and anyone planning day trips.
The New Town: elegant and calm. North of Princes Street, the Georgian New Town is a UNESCO-listed grid of grand streets, squares and gardens, with the best shopping and many of the best restaurants and cocktail bars. It is flatter than the Old Town and much quieter at night, though still a short walk from everything. Gleneagles Townhouse, in a former bank on St Andrew Square, is the city's most fashionable luxury address, with a rooftop bar and the airport tram outside the door. Kimpton Charlotte Square, at the West End of George Street, combines Georgian townhouses with a pool, spa and a popular Levantine restaurant. Choose the New Town for comfort, food and a calmer evening atmosphere.
The West End and Haymarket. West of the New Town, the West End and Haymarket area is more residential and business-like, with good-value hotels near Haymarket station, the second rail hub, and easy access to the airport tram. It is a short walk to Dean Village, the Water of Leith and the Modern Art galleries, and around twenty minutes to the Old Town. It suits travellers who want a quieter base and good transport links.
Stockbridge. A village-like neighbourhood north of the New Town, with independent shops, cafés, a Sunday market and the Water of Leith running through it. Accommodation is mostly guesthouses and apartments rather than large hotels. It is a lovely place to stay for a longer visit if you do not mind a twenty-minute walk into the centre.
Leith. Edinburgh's port, a couple of kilometres north of the centre, has transformed into one of the city's best food and drink districts, especially along the Shore, and it is home to the Royal Yacht Britannia. The tram now links it directly to the city centre and the airport. Staying here gives a more local feel and often better value, at the cost of a tram or bus ride to the Old Town.
Southside and beyond. South of the Old Town, the Southside, Newington and Marchmont are residential areas with plenty of guesthouses and good-value hotels, close to Holyrood Park and the university. They suit budget-conscious travellers and anyone visiting for longer, with the Royal Mile around fifteen to twenty minutes on foot.
Price, timing and the levy. Edinburgh hotel rates swing dramatically by season: August, when the festivals fill the city, and Hogmanay are the most expensive and book out months ahead, while January to March offers the best value. Rugby internationals and big concerts can also push prices up. Since 24 July 2026, the Edinburgh Visitor Levy adds 5% of the pre-VAT room cost for the first five nights of a stay; some hotels include it in their rates, others add it at check-in. Compare total prices before booking.
The quick answer. First-timers on a short stay: Princes Street and Waverley, or the Old Town. Couples wanting romance: the Witchery, or the Balmoral for grand-hotel style. Design lovers: Gleneagles Townhouse or Virgin. Families: Kimpton Charlotte Square for the pool, or Motel One for value with children up to twelve free. Budget travellers: Motel One or the Southside. Food lovers on a longer stay: Leith or Stockbridge.