Princes' Islands

The Princes' Islands, Adalar in Turkish, are where Istanbul goes to slow down. Nine islands lie off the Asian shore in the Sea of Marmara, four of them regularly visited, and their name recalls the Byzantine princes and empresses exiled to monasteries here. In the nineteenth century they became the summer retreat of the city's Greek, Armenian, Jewish and Levantine families, who built the wooden mansions, with their gingerbread trim and gardens of bougainvillea, that still line the streets. Private cars are not allowed, the horse-drawn carriages were retired in 2020, and the islands now move on bicycles, on foot and in small municipal electric vehicles, which gives them a hushed, old-fashioned atmosphere that feels a world away from the traffic of the mainland. Buyukada, the largest, is the one to choose for a first visit: walk or ride up through the pine woods to the hilltop monastery of Aya Yorgi, Saint George, for a sweeping view over the sea and the other islands, then wind back down past the grandest mansions to the fish restaurants along the harbor. Heybeliada, the second island, is greener and quieter, with walking paths through pine forest, the old naval school and, on its hilltop, the former Greek Orthodox seminary of Halki. Burgazada and Kinaliada, the smaller islands, are more residential and popular with locals for swimming in summer. The public ferry takes around an hour and a half from the European side and costs little more than a city bus fare.

Getting there: public Sehir Hatlari ferries run to the islands from Kabatas on the European side and from Kadikoy and Bostanci on the Asian side, calling at Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Buyukada in turn, and private ferry lines add more departures in summer. Pay with an Istanbulkart, the city transport card. Faster sea-bus services run from some piers. Weekend and holiday crowds in summer are intense, so travel on a weekday morning if you can, and check the return timetable on arrival, because the last boats back fill up. In winter the islands are quiet and some restaurants close, but the light and the empty lanes have their own magic.

How to spend the day on Buyukada: from the pier, walk up through the clock tower square and rent a bicycle, or join the queue for the electric buses that run around the island. The climb to Aya Yorgi on Yucetepe hill is steep but short, and the monastery, still a place of pilgrimage for Christians and Muslims alike, has a simple terrace restaurant with one of the best views in the Marmara. Then cycle the ring road through the pine woods and coves before returning to the harbor for grilled fish and meze. If you have energy left, take a short ferry hop to Heybeliada on the way home for a quieter walk.

Things to know: there is little shade on the climbs, so bring water, a hat and good shoes in summer. Beaches on the islands are small and some are private clubs with an entry fee; swimming is better on Burgazada and Heybeliada than near the Buyukada pier. Prices in the harbor restaurants are higher than in the city, so check menus before you sit down. Many tour operators sell guided day trips with lunch, but the islands are easy to do independently and the public ferry is part of the experience: buy a glass of tea and a simit on board, sit on the open deck and watch the old city skyline slide away behind you.