Istanbul Travel Guide
First Time in Istanbul
What a first-timer needs to know before landing in Istanbul: the new Hagia Sophia rules, the Museum Pass, closing days, prices in euros and lira, the accommodation tax, the Istanbulkart, taxis, mosque etiquette and the scams worth knowing about.
Istanbul is one of the most rewarding cities in the world for a first visit, and also one of the most overwhelming. It sprawls across two continents, its population is counted in the millions, and its traffic, crowds and hills can wear you out. A little knowledge goes a long way. Here is what is worth knowing before you land.
The old city, the new city and Asia. Think of Istanbul in three parts. The Historic Peninsula, south of the Golden Horn, holds Sultanahmet with Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi and the Basilica Cistern, plus the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar and the Suleymaniye. North of the Golden Horn, Galata, Karakoy and Beyoglu are the modern heart, with the Galata Tower, Istiklal Avenue, restaurants and nightlife, and further up the Bosphorus lie Dolmabahce, Besiktas and Ortakoy. Across the Bosphorus, the Asian side, with Kadikoy, Moda and Uskudar, is where many Istanbullus live, and it is a short, cheap ferry ride away.
How tickets work now. Several big changes have reshaped sightseeing in recent years. Hagia Sophia is a working mosque again, and since January 2024 foreign visitors use a separate entrance and pay a ticket, set at twenty-five euros, for a route through the upper galleries, while the ground floor is reserved for prayer. The Blue Mosque and the Suleymaniye remain free. State museums and palaces now charge foreign visitors prices often set or advertised in euros, with Turkish residents paying less, and prices are adjusted during the year. The official Museum Pass Istanbul, valid for several days from first use, covers Topkapi and the Harem, the Archaeological Museums, the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, the Galata Tower by day and other state museums, but not Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern or Dolmabahce. Resellers such as Tiqets sell skip-the-ticket-line entries and tours for the major sights; they save the sales queue but never the security check.
Closing days and prayer times. Topkapi is closed on Tuesdays, Dolmabahce on Mondays, some smaller museums on Mondays, and the Grand Bazaar on Sundays and religious holidays, while the Spice Bazaar opens daily. Mosques close to visitors during each of the five daily prayers, for an hour or more, and for longer around the Friday noon prayer; times shift daily with the sun, so check a prayer-times app each morning. The first day of the major religious holidays can close museums and markets.
Mosque etiquette. Cover shoulders and knees, and women cover their hair; scarves and wraps are usually available at the larger mosques. Shoes come off at the door. Stay behind the barriers, keep voices low, do not photograph people praying, and avoid walking in front of anyone at prayer. Visiting is a privilege that Istanbul's mosques offer generously, and respectful visitors are warmly welcomed.
Money and prices. The currency is the Turkish lira, which has lost much of its value in recent years, so prices change often and many tourist businesses quote in euros. Pay in lira where you can, and always decline card terminals that offer to charge you in your home currency. Cards are widely accepted, but carry some cash for small shops, street food and tips. Tipping is customary: around ten percent in restaurants where service is not included, small change for taxis and porters. Hotels add Turkey's two percent accommodation tax on the room rate on top of VAT, sometimes collected at check-out.
Getting around. Buy an Istanbulkart from the machines at airports and major stations and load it with credit; it works on the T1 tram that links Sultanahmet with Eminonu, Karakoy and Kabatas, the metro, the funiculars, buses and ferries, and is much cheaper than single tickets. Ferries are the joy of the city: the commuter boats between Eminonu, Karakoy, Kadikoy, Uskudar and Besiktas are the cheapest scenic cruises anywhere. Taxis are plentiful but traffic can be heavy; use the official stands or a reputable app and make sure the meter is running. Walking is the best way to see the old city and Galata, but the hills are steep and the cobbles uneven, so bring good shoes.
Scams and nuisances. Istanbul is generally safe for visitors, but a few classics are worth knowing. The Beyoglu bar scam starts with friendly strangers suggesting a drink and ends with a huge bill; decline politely. Shoe-shiners who drop a brush and expect a reward for its return, carpet-shop touts who just want to show you their cousin's shop, and unofficial guides at mosque entrances are mostly harmless nuisances. Nobody sells tickets for the Blue Mosque, which is free. Watch your phone and wallet in crowded trams and markets.
Connectivity and apps. A local SIM or an eSIM makes life much easier for maps, ride apps and prayer-time checks; foreign phones used on a Turkish SIM for long periods can be subject to registration rules, so short-stay eSIMs are the simplest option. Download offline maps of the old city, whose lanes confuse GPS, and a prayer-times app for mosque visits.
Practicalities. Check visa or electronic-entry requirements for your nationality well before you travel, as rules vary and change. Tap water is treated, but most people drink bottled. Public toilets often charge a small fee. Streets are busy and drivers assertive, so cross carefully. And slow down: the most memorable moments in Istanbul are often a glass of tea on a ferry deck, the call to prayer echoing across the water and a long dinner of meze with the city lights below.