Sultanahmet (by the Hippodrome)

Hotel Ibrahim Pasha

★★★★★

Hotel Ibrahim Pasha is one of the best-loved small hotels in Sultanahmet, and it earns its reputation through taste and attention rather than size. It takes its name from the grand vizier whose palace, now the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, stands a few steps away on the Hippodrome, and it occupies two Ottoman houses from the turn of the twentieth century, joined into a single hotel on a central but quiet street. Inside, the style is calm and contemporary, with Ottoman and Anatolian touches, books and art rather than heavy period decoration, and rooms come in two broad types: standard rooms, which are compact as old-city rooms tend to be, and deluxe rooms, some with balconies. The building has four floors and a lift, a real plus in a district where many small hotels rely on steep stairs. The highlight is the rooftop terrace, with a bar reserved for guests, where you look over the domes and minarets of the Blue Mosque to the ships waiting in the Sea of Marmara; evenings there are one of the quiet pleasures of staying in Sultanahmet. Breakfast, a Turkish and continental spread served in the lobby each morning, is included in the room rates. The team is known for thoughtful local advice, and the hotel publishes its own list of recommended restaurants, which saves guests from the tourist traps around the main squares. Location is close to perfect: the Hippodrome is at the end of the street and the Blue Mosque a few minutes away.

Who it suits: couples and solo travelers on a mid-range budget who want character, comfort and a superb location without the scale of a big hotel. First-time visitors will appreciate being able to walk to nearly every major sight. Families with older children can manage in a deluxe room, but there are no dedicated family suites, so larger families should look at Sura Hagia Sophia or Hotel Amira.

Location math: the Hippodrome and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts are a minute or two away, the Blue Mosque about five minutes, Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern around ten, and Topkapi fifteen. The Sultanahmet tram stop is within easy walking distance, which makes the Grand Bazaar, Eminonu and the ferries, and Karakoy across the Galata Bridge easy to reach. The street is quiet at night, as is most of Sultanahmet, so plan some evenings across the water in Karakoy or Beyoglu.

Practical notes: ask for a deluxe room if space matters, and a balcony room if you want fresh air and a view; standard rooms are best for travelers who spend their days out. Reserve well ahead for spring and autumn, when the hotel fills early. Turkey's two percent accommodation tax applies on top of the room rate. The roof bar is for guests only, which keeps it peaceful, but it can be cool and windy in the shoulder seasons, so bring a layer. Use the hotel's own restaurant recommendations, and let the staff arrange an airport transfer if you arrive late or with heavy luggage on the cobbled streets.