Cihangir, Beyoglu

Witt Istanbul Suites

★★★★★

Witt Istanbul Suites is the answer for travelers who want a stylish base with more space than a standard hotel room. It sits on a steep hill in Cihangir, the leafy, bohemian neighborhood of Beyoglu that is home to artists, writers and some of the city's best cafes, and it is made up of suites rather than rooms, each with a kitchenette, so you can make breakfast or a simple supper, store snacks for children and live a little more like a local. The interiors are a celebrated piece of contemporary Istanbul design, with warm wood, bold tiles and well-chosen furniture, and many suites have big windows with views over the skyline and down towards the Bosphorus. A roof garden adds outdoor space. Location is a big part of the appeal. Taksim Square, Istiklal Avenue and Istanbul Modern are all within walking distance, the Tophane tram stop is about five minutes down the hill, which puts Sultanahmet a short tram ride away, and the metro at Taksim is ten to fifteen minutes on foot. Cihangir itself is a pleasure to come home to, with its cats, bookshops, corner bakeries and terrace cafes, and the evening life of Beyoglu is on the doorstep. The hotel arranges private airport transfers on request and gives guests a pocket map of the neighborhood on arrival, and its own pages carefully explain how to get there by taxi or public transport, in English and Turkish.

Who it suits: couples who love design, longer-stay travelers, and families with children who appreciate a separate living area and a kitchenette for simple meals and early breakfasts. It also suits travelers who would rather stay in a real neighborhood than among the monuments. It is not ideal for anyone with limited mobility, because Cihangir is extremely hilly and the streets around the hotel are steep.

Location math: the Tophane tram stop is about five minutes downhill and Sultanahmet about twenty minutes from the hotel door by tram. Istanbul Modern and the Galataport waterfront are a short walk down, Istiklal Avenue and Taksim a walk uphill, and the Galata Tower around fifteen to twenty minutes on foot. From Istanbul Airport a taxi takes about forty-five minutes outside rush hour; from Sabiha Gokcen on the Asian side, the hotel itself advises against a taxi because of the distance and suggests other options.

Practical notes: print or save the hotel's directions in Turkish to show taxi drivers, as the narrow streets confuse some of them. Shop for the kitchenette at the neighborhood grocers and bakeries, and ask the staff for their favorite local restaurants. Confirm suite size and bed arrangements if you are traveling with children. Turkey's two percent accommodation tax is added to the room rate. Rates are in the upper mid-range, but for families the space can work out cheaper than booking two hotel rooms. Book well ahead, as the suites are limited and popular with returning guests.