Key West Travel Guide
Eating Key West
What to eat on the island and when — the real key lime pie, conch fritters, Cuban coffee and sandwiches, pink shrimp, stone crab and spiny lobster seasons, and how to eat like a local from breakfast to the last bar.
Key West cooks at the meeting point of the American South, the Bahamas, and Cuba, with the Gulf and the Atlantic delivering the ingredients. The food is casual, local, and best eaten outdoors — on porches, in garden courtyards, and at harbor-side tables — and a handful of dishes define the island. Here is how to eat it well.
Key lime pie, the right way. The island's signature dessert is made with the small, tart key limes, sweetened condensed milk, and egg yolks in a graham cracker crust. The great debate is the topping: meringue or whipped cream, and both camps are passionate. The real thing is pale yellow, never green — a green pie is a tourist pie. Try several: bakeries and dessert shops along Duval and around the Historic Seaport sell slices, whole pies, and the frozen chocolate-dipped slice on a stick that has become an island snack. Kermit's, near the Historic Seaport, is one of the best-known shops.
Conch, the island's namesake. Native-born Key Westers call themselves Conchs, and the queen conch was once a staple, though harvesting it in Florida waters has been banned since the 1980s and the conch on menus is imported. Conch fritters — chopped conch in a spiced batter, fried and served with a tangy dipping sauce — are the classic snack; conch chowder and cracked conch are the heartier versions. Order them at a casual waterfront spot with a cold drink.
Cuban Key West. The island's Cuban roots go back to the cigar factories of the nineteenth century, and the culture survives at the walk-up windows. Start the day with a cafe con leche and Cuban toast, buttered and pressed; take a midmorning colada, the sweet, potent espresso meant to be shared in thimble-sized cups; and lunch on a Cuban mix sandwich, pressed with roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, and mustard. Black beans and rice, picadillo, and plantains round out the menu.
The catch. Local fish is the island's pride: yellowtail and mangrove snapper, grouper, hogfish (a delicate local favorite, speared rather than hooked), mahi-mahi, and wahoo, served grilled, blackened, fried, or in sandwiches and tacos. Key West pink shrimp, sweet and tender, are worth seeking out. Seasonal stars include Florida stone crab claws, served chilled with mustard sauce in the season from mid-October to early May, and Florida spiny lobster, which has no claws but a sweet tail, in season from late summer through winter. Ask your server what came in today.
Breakfast and brunch. Key West does a long, lazy breakfast better than almost anywhere. Blue Heaven, in Bahama Village, is the island legend: an open-air courtyard where chickens and roosters wander between the tables, famous for its pancakes, its Benedicts, and a towering key lime pie. Pepe's Cafe, one of the oldest restaurants on the island, is a small, beloved spot for breakfast and old-fashioned seafood dinners. Arrive early or expect a wait at both.
The harbor and the sunset hour. The Historic Seaport is a good evening base, with raw bars, seafood restaurants, and casual open-air bars along the harborwalk. Schooner Wharf Bar is a long-running waterfront favorite with live music and a salty crowd. For a sunset drink without the Mallory crowd, the Sunset Pier at Ocean Key and the beach bars at the Pier House are easy options.
The bars that matter. Sloppy Joe's on Duval is the famous one, linked forever with Hemingway, with live bands all day. Captain Tony's Saloon, in the building that housed the original Sloppy Joe's, is darker and quirkier. The Green Parrot, on Whitehead Street, is the locals' favorite live-music bar, a ramshackle corner joint with excellent bands. The Hog's Breath Saloon and the Chart Room at the Pier House round out the classic list. Tip the musicians and pace yourself — the island's drink sizes are generous.
Dinner and the finer side. Key West has a sophisticated dining scene beyond the classics, with garden courtyards, harbor-view dining rooms, and resort restaurants serving modern Floridian, Caribbean, and Latin cooking. Reservations are wise for dinner in high season, especially for anything with a view or a garden. Stock Island, the working-waterfront key next door, has become a destination for seafood lovers, with marina restaurants serving fish fresh off the boats.
Bahama Village and the side streets. Some of the island's most characterful eating happens off Duval. Bahama Village, the historic Afro-Caribbean neighborhood west of Duval around Petronia and Whitehead streets, is home to Blue Heaven and a cluster of small cafes, and its streets keep a lived-in island feel. The side streets around Old Town hide garden restaurants and cafes where you eat under the trees with roosters for company. Walk a block off the main drag and the prices often drop and the quality often rises.
Drinks of the island. Beyond the cold beer, Key West has its own drinking traditions. The rum runner and the Hemingway-associated daiquiri appear on every bar menu; the island's own rum distillery produces local spirits, and there are several craft breweries in the Keys. For non-drinkers, fresh limeade made with key limes and a Cuban coffee at any hour are the local refreshments. In the heat, alternate every drink with water.
Practical tips. Lunch is often the best value; many restaurants serve the same fish at lower prices before dinner. Gratuities are sometimes included for larger groups, so check the bill. Drink lots of water in the heat. And save room for one more slice of pie — it is the island's unofficial rule that you never stop at one.