Almudena Cathedral, Museum and Dome

The Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena is a surprise to many visitors: Madrid, despite being the capital of a deeply Catholic country, did not have a cathedral until the late twentieth century. The building was begun in the 1880s, interrupted for decades and finally consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1993, which explains its unusual mixture of styles: a neo-classical exterior designed to harmonise with the Royal Palace opposite, a neo-Gothic interior, and a neo-Romanesque crypt underneath. The result is not one of Spain's great medieval cathedrals, and it does not pretend to be. What makes it worth an hour is its position and the way it uses modern art. Inside, the nave is lit by contemporary stained glass and covered with brightly painted ceilings in a pop-inflected style that divides opinion but is never dull, and side chapels hold modern works alongside the medieval image of the Virgin of the Almudena, the city's patron. Entry to the cathedral itself is free, with a suggested donation. The real reward is the museum visit, which has a separate ticket at a modest price. It takes you through the chapter house and main sacristy, decorated with mosaics, and displays objects related to the history of the Church in Madrid and its patron saints, including a codex on the life and miracles of San Isidro. Then a staircase climbs to the dome, more than seventy metres up, where an outdoor gallery gives one of the best views in the centre: straight down on to the Royal Palace and the Plaza de la Armería, across the Plaza de Oriente, over the Segovia viaduct and out to the dome of San Francisco el Grande. On the first Wednesday of most months, the gallery is also a fine place to watch the formal Changing of the Guard in the courtyard below, weather permitting.

Planning the visit: the cathedral is open every day from morning to evening, but visitors are asked not to wander during Mass and other services, so you may have to wait. The museum and dome have more limited hours, generally from Monday to Saturday in the morning and early afternoon, and they close on Sundays, holy days and days of special services. Tickets for the museum are sold on site, with reductions for children, students and seniors, and young children enter free. A free audioguide is available on your phone through the cathedral's wifi. The crypt has its own entrance on Calle Mayor and its own hours, with a break at midday; with its hundreds of columns and quiet chapels, it is worth a short visit too.

Fitting it in: the cathedral is directly opposite the Royal Palace and next to the Gallery of the Royal Collections, so the natural plan is to combine them. Visit the palace and the gallery in the morning, then climb the dome before the museum closes in the early afternoon, or reverse the order and start with the dome when it opens for the clearest light over the palace. Allow about an hour for the cathedral, museum and dome together, plus half an hour if you visit the crypt. The climb involves stairs, so it is not suitable for everyone, but the view is the best reward for effort in the royal quarter.

Who it suits: first-time visitors who want an overview of the old royal quarter from above; couples looking for a photogenic, uncrowded viewpoint; families with children who can manage stairs; and anyone interested in how modern religious art can transform a traditional building. Pair it with the Royal Palace and the Gallery of the Royal Collections across the courtyard, a walk through the Sabatini or Campo del Moro gardens, and lunch around the Plaza de Oriente or down Calle Mayor towards the Plaza Mayor.