Mdina crowns a ridge in the centre of Malta, and for most of its long history it was the island’s capital, the seat of the old nobility until the Knights moved power to the harbour. Its nickname, the Silent City, comes from the hush of its narrow, winding lanes, where cars are restricted to residents and sound bounces softly off the stone. You enter over a bridge through the ornate Baroque Main Gate, a scene fans of early Game of Thrones may recognise, and from there it is a slow wander past palazzi with heavy doors and brass knockers, small chapels and courtyards. The heart of the town is St Paul’s Cathedral, rebuilt in Baroque style after an earthquake in the 1690s, with its museum across the square. Walk to the bastions on the northern side for the view: the whole island spread below, with Mosta’s great dome and the sea on the horizon. Just outside the walls lies Rabat, with St Paul’s Catacombs and the Domus Romana.
Entering Mdina is free, and the cathedral and museum carry a single modest ticket. Buses run frequently from Valletta, and the hop-on hop-off north route stops at the Main Gate. The lanes are mostly level inside the walls but cobbled, and midday in summer is hot and busy with tour groups.
Come in the late afternoon and stay into the evening, when the coaches have gone and the lamps come on; that is when the Silent City earns its name. Have tea and cake on the bastion terraces with the island at your feet, then explore Rabat’s catacombs the next morning, or combine both with Dingli Cliffs a short drive south for sunset.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided wander through a car-free walled town, with an optional cathedral and museum ticket.
Best time
Late afternoon into evening, after the tour groups leave.
How long
Two to three hours, longer with Rabat.
Tips
Wear shoes with grip for the polished stone, and continue to Rabat for the catacombs.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Atmosphere seekers and photographers.
- Families
- Easy and free, with walls and gates kids enjoy; add the catacombs in Rabat for older children.
- Couples
- Dusk on the bastions is one of the most romantic hours in Malta.
- Pair with
- The hop-on hop-off north route or a Gozo day the next morning.
- Time needed
- Half a day with Rabat.
Good questions
Is Mdina free?+
Yes, walking around the town is free. The cathedral and its museum share a modest ticket.
How do I get there from Valletta?+
By public bus from Valletta’s terminal, by taxi, or on the hop-on hop-off north route, which stops at the Main Gate.
Why is it called the Silent City?+
Its narrow lanes are closed to most traffic, so the town is unusually quiet, especially in the evening.
Was Game of Thrones filmed here?+
Yes, the Main Gate area appeared in the first season, standing in for King’s Landing.
When is the best time to go?+
Late afternoon and evening, when the coach groups have left and the lanes are lamplit.