The Souks of Marrakech

The souks of Marrakech are not a single market but a whole district of them, a dense web of lanes, many covered with slatted reed or timber roofs, that spreads north from Jemaa el-Fna towards the Ben Youssef Madrasa. Traditionally each trade had its own street, and that pattern still largely holds, which is the key to navigating them. Souk Semmarine, entered through an arch at the northern edge of the square, is the main artery, lined with textiles, babouche slippers, lanterns, ceramics and souvenirs, and it splits further in into Souk el Kebir and Souk el Attarine, the old spice and perfume street. Off to the east lies Rahba Kedima, a small open square that was once the grain market, where pyramids of spices, dried herbs, chameleons in cages and woven baskets crowd the stalls and rooftop cafes look down over the scene. Beyond are the specialist souks: the Souk des Teinturiers, the dyers, where freshly colored skeins of wool hang overhead to dry; the Souk Haddadine, where metalworkers hammer lanterns and gates in showers of sparks; the woodturners working lathes with their feet; the leather souks, the jewelry souk and the carpet auctions. Around the edges, the Mouassine quarter has some of the most elegant boutiques and concept stores, while the Fondouk, old caravanserai courtyards where merchants once lodged with their goods, now house workshops. Everything is negotiable except in the few fixed-price shops, and the rhythm of bargaining over mint tea is part of the experience. The souks are free, open daily from mid-morning into the evening, with some shops closing for Friday prayers, and they are as much a sight as any palace.

How to shop: decide roughly what something is worth to you before you ask the price, expect the first figure to be high, counter well below it and settle somewhere between, with good humor on both sides. Walking away is a legitimate move, and often brings the price down. Do not start bargaining for something you have no intention of buying. Quality varies hugely, so compare before buying big items such as rugs, leather bags or brass lanterns; for real leather, smell and feel it, for rugs, ask whether it is hand-knotted and natural-dyed, and for argan oil buy from a cooperative or a reputable shop rather than a souk stall. If you would rather skip haggling, the fixed-price Ensemble Artisanal, a government crafts center near the Koutoubia, gives you a benchmark for prices.

Navigating and avoiding hassle: the lanes are confusing and phone maps are only partly reliable under the roofs, but getting a little lost is half the pleasure, and Jemaa el-Fna is never far. Two landmarks help: the souks run downhill towards the square, and the Ben Youssef Madrasa sits at their northern end. Young men who tell you a road is closed, that the tanneries are this way or that the Berber market is only open today are steering you to a shop or to a guide fee; thank them and carry on. Motorbikes and donkey carts squeeze through the main lanes, so step aside when you hear a horn or a shout of balak. Leather tanneries in the northeast are fascinating but are the hub of a persistent touting operation; go with a licensed guide if you want to see them.

When to go: late morning, once the shutters are up, until early afternoon is the liveliest time, and the hour before sunset is beautiful as light slants through the reed roofs. Fridays around midday are quieter as many merchants close for prayers. For a first visit, a guided souk walk with an official guide is a good investment: you see the craftsmen at work, you learn what things should cost, and touts leave you alone. Then come back on your own to buy.