Medina (Bab Laksour)

El Fenn

★★★★★

El Fenn is the riad that made the Medina fashionable again, and two decades on it is still the one other hotels are measured against. Co-owned by Vanessa Branson, it grew from a single house into eight interconnected riads around five courtyards, a few minutes' walk from Jemaa el-Fna near Bab Laksour, with parts of the buildings dating back to the nineteenth century. Local craftspeople restored and decorated everything by hand: carved plaster, cedar ceilings, polished tadelakt walls, zellige floors and even leather floors in some rooms. The look is bold and joyful, with deep reds, pinks, ochres and greens, vintage and contemporary furniture, and an art collection of about a hundred works by emerging and established artists including David Shrigley, Hassan Hajjaj and Leila Alaoui. Each courtyard has its own mood, from a palm-shaded pool to a quiet fountain garden, and the hotel's three pools are a big part of its appeal in a district where most riads have, at best, a plunge pool. The rooftop is the social heart, some 1,300 square meters of terraces, cushioned corners and a bar and restaurant looking across the Medina to the Koutoubia minaret and, on clear days, the Atlas. The kitchen works with local producers such as Zahour Saffron and Farm Slimane for seasonal Moroccan and Mediterranean cooking, and the rooftop at sunset is one of the city's best places for a drink. There is a spa using organic Moroccan plant products and a boutique selling small-batch fashion and homeware from local designers and makers. Rooms range from compact doubles to grand suites, each different, and many of the staff come from the local community, some having worked here since the hotel opened.

Who it suits: design lovers, couples, friends traveling together and anyone who wants the Medina experience with the comforts of a boutique hotel. The atmosphere is relaxed and social, especially on the rooftop, which also draws non-guests for drinks and dinner, so it is lively rather than hushed in the evenings. Families are welcome, but the many staircases, open pools and the style of the place suit older children best.

Location math: Jemaa el-Fna is about five minutes on foot, the Koutoubia a few minutes more, and the souks open just beyond the square. Taxis can drop you close to the entrance near Bab Laksour, which makes arrivals easier than at many riads buried deep in the lanes. The Mouassine quarter, Le Jardin Secret and the Ben Youssef Madrasa are a fifteen to twenty minute walk through the souks.

Practical notes: El Fenn is in the upper-middle to luxury bracket and books up quickly for spring, autumn and festive dates. Rooms vary greatly in size and character, so read the descriptions carefully and ask for one near the courtyard you prefer; some are close to the rooftop bar. Book a table on the rooftop for sunset even as a guest in high season. A per-person tourist tax is charged per night.