Monaco & Monte-Carlo

Monaco is a city-state of about two square kilometres squeezed between the mountains and the sea twenty minutes east of Nice, and it packs an extraordinary amount into that space: a medieval fortress-palace on a rock, a harbour full of the world's largest yachts, a Formula 1 street circuit, a casino that became a byword for glamour, and a skyline of towers built on every scrap of land, including some reclaimed from the sea. The Grimaldi family has ruled here since 1297, and the old town on the Rock, Monaco-Ville, still feels like a small Italianate village: pastel houses, narrow lanes, souvenir shops and the Romanesque-revival cathedral, where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III are buried. In front of the Prince's Palace, the Changing of the Guard takes place every day at 11:55, a short, precise ceremony by the Carabiniers in their uniforms (white in summer, black in winter) that draws a crowd; arrive fifteen minutes early to get a spot at the railings. The palace State Apartments, with their Renaissance frescoes, open seasonally only, from spring to mid-October, so in winter you see the palace from its square and the panoramic terraces. Below the Rock lies Port Hercule, lined with yachts and, in May, transformed by the Grand Prix grandstands; across the harbour rises Monte-Carlo, where the Casino de Monte-Carlo, designed by Charles Garnier, presides over its gardens and the Café de Paris and the Hôtel de Paris face it across the square. Visitors can tour the casino's Belle Époque interiors in the mornings, from 10am to 1pm, with no age limit and a modest admission; the gaming rooms open from 2pm to adults over eighteen with passport or EU ID and a dress code. Tiqets sells a range of guided day trips from Nice — morning, afternoon and night tours, many combining Monaco with Eze — which suit visitors who prefer not to manage trains and buses.

Doing it independently: trains on the coastal line run frequently from Nice-Ville to Monaco-Monte-Carlo station, about twenty to twenty-five minutes, and the station is a short walk or lift ride from the harbour. From there, walk up the ramps to the Rock (about fifteen minutes) or take one of the city buses, which are cheap and frequent. A good order: the Rock in the morning for the Oceanographic Museum, the cathedral and the 11:55 guard ceremony; lunch in Monaco-Ville; then down to Port Hercule, along the harbour and up to Monte-Carlo for the casino square, the gardens and the Japanese garden by the sea. Monaco is very walkable, with public lifts and escalators linking its levels — look for the signs. Be aware of rail disruption in late 2026: a national strike is called for 5 November, and the Nice-Ventimiglia line is closed from 10pm to 6am on Sunday to Thursday nights until 11 December for works, with replacement buses.

Doing it guided: the Tiqets day trips from Nice range from a short sea crossing in summer to small-group morning or afternoon tours (Monaco, Monte-Carlo and Eze, typically five to six hours) and full-day tours that add Nice sights. Guided tours solve the transport puzzle, cover the Eze perfume and village stop, and often include an evening drive through the Grand Prix circuit; their downside is limited time inside museums, so if the Oceanographic Museum is a priority, buy a separate entry and go independently, or choose a tour with free time on the Rock.

Costs and expectations: Monaco is famously expensive, but sightseeing need not be — the guard ceremony, the cathedral, the gardens, the harbour walk and the views are free, and the casino's morning visit is a modest fee. Dining on the casino square is a splurge; Monaco-Ville and the market at La Condamine have simpler, better-value options. Dress codes apply in the casino gaming rooms (no shorts, sportswear or flip-flops) and to some restaurants in the evening. Monaco uses the euro, and you will not need a passport to cross from France, though carry ID for the gaming rooms.