Monte-Carlo, Place du Casino

Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo

★★★★★

If Monte-Carlo has a home, it is the Hôtel de Paris. It opened in 1864 on the Place du Casino, facing the Casino de Monte-Carlo and the Café de Paris, as part of the plan by the Société des Bains de Mer to turn a rocky principality into the most glamorous resort in Europe, and for more than a century and a half it has welcomed royalty, stars, writers and racing drivers. The building was entirely rebuilt and modernised in a multi-year renovation completed in 2019, which preserved its Belle Époque façade and grand public rooms — the marble lobby with its domed glass roof, the bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV whose horse's knee guests touch for luck — while adding new wings, rooftop suites, gardens, and a courtyard with a pool. Today it has about 208 rooms and suites, nearly half of them suites, many with balconies or terraces looking over the harbour, the Rock of Monaco and the sea, and two spectacular rooftop suites named for Prince Rainier III and Princess Grace. Dining is exceptional. Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse à l'Hôtel de Paris holds three Michelin stars and is one of the great dining rooms of Europe, dedicated to the cuisine of the Riviera; Le Grill on the top floor has a roof that opens to the sky; the Bar Américain is a classic of Monte-Carlo nightlife with live music; and the hotel's wine cellar, carved into the rock, is among the largest hotel cellars in the world. Guests have access to the Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo spa, connected to the hotel, and to the beach clubs of the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer group. It is a five-star palace, open every day of the year, and one of the most expensive hotels in the region.

Why stay: location is everything in Monaco, and nothing beats waking up on the Casino square. The casino, the Opera, the Café de Paris and the luxury boutiques are steps away; the harbour, Grand Prix circuit and the Rock are a short walk or bus ride. If your Riviera trip includes a special celebration, a Grand Prix weekend or simply a desire to experience Monte-Carlo at its most legendary, this is the place. Rooms facing the sea or the square are the ones to book; courtyard rooms are quieter and cheaper.

Living in it: service is polished and attentive, with a concierge team adept at securing tables, cars and access to events. Dinner at Le Louis XV is one of the great meals of a lifetime and must be booked well ahead; Le Grill offers a slightly more relaxed experience with the same views. The Thermes Marins spa is a destination in itself. Rates are very high and soar during the Grand Prix and other major events; winter and the shoulder seasons bring better value, and the hotel is calmer.

Base math: Monaco-Monte-Carlo station is about ten minutes on foot or a short taxi ride, with trains to Nice in about twenty to twenty-five minutes and to Menton in about ten. Nice airport is around forty-five minutes by car or helicopter transfer. For a Riviera trip based in Nice, consider a one- or two-night splurge here as a finale.