Rittenhouse Square

Rittenhouse Square is Philadelphia's living room, the place where the whole city seems to pass through on a sunny afternoon. It is one of the five public squares William Penn laid out in his 1682 plan for the city, named for the astronomer and clockmaker David Rittenhouse, and over the nineteenth century it became the heart of Philadelphia's most fashionable residential district. Today the surrounding blocks, at 18th and Walnut Streets in Center City, are lined with elegant townhouses, high-rise apartments, hotels, sidewalk cafes and the shops of Walnut and Chestnut Streets, while the park itself remains a green, gracious oasis. The design is formal and inviting: diagonal walkways lead from each corner to a central oval with a balustrade, a reflecting pool and a large planter, surrounded by classical urns and lamp posts. The square is a small outdoor sculpture gallery, and part of the fun is finding the pieces: Antoine-Louis Barye's bronze Lion Crushing a Serpent in the central plaza; Paul Manship's Duck Girl in the pool; Albert Laessle's Billy, a small bronze goat whose head, horns and back have been rubbed gold by generations of children; a sundial, a granite frog and two small stone dogs at the southwest entrance. Look too at the buildings around the edges, which trace the neighborhood's evolution from Gilded Age mansions and clubs to Art Deco apartment towers and contemporary high-rises. The square hosts big seasonal events: the Rittenhouse Row Spring Festival, usually in early May, draws tens of thousands for food, shopping and music; the Rittenhouse Square Fine Art Show brings hundreds of artists who circle the square; and the holiday tree lighting adds thousands of lights. The rest of the time it is simply the best people-watching in the city: dog walkers, students, office workers on lunch, musicians and families. It is free and open daily.

How to use it: grab coffee or a pastry from one of the surrounding cafes and claim a bench, then take a slow loop to find the sculptures; kids love climbing on Billy the goat. Late morning and late afternoon are the liveliest times, and the outdoor tables on the square's edges are prime spots for lunch or an early evening drink. Check the Friends of Rittenhouse Square for current events, from concerts to seasonal markets. After dark the square is lit and lively with diners heading to the neighborhood's restaurants.

The neighborhood: Rittenhouse is the city's most polished district, with fine dining, boutiques and department stores along Walnut Street, and quieter, beautiful residential streets such as Delancey Place and the blocks south of the square, lined with brick townhouses and carriage houses. The Mütter Museum is a short walk west, the Schuylkill Banks boardwalk is a few blocks beyond, and City Hall and the Avenue of the Arts are about ten minutes east on foot.

Pairing and fit: start a day here with breakfast and a walk through the square, then head to the Mütter Museum and the Schuylkill River Trail, or north to the Parkway museums. In the evening, it is the natural starting point for dinner in Center City. It suits couples, first-time visitors who want to feel the rhythm of the city, families who need a break and a playful sculpture, and anyone staying at one of the many hotels nearby. It costs nothing, needs no planning and gives you the most relaxed hour of a busy trip. Return after dinner, when the paths glow under the lamps and the cafes spill onto the sidewalks, and you will see why so many Philadelphians call this their favorite place in the city.