The first decision is which city to sleep in. Pisa has the airport, the busier rail hub and the Leaning Tower, so it suits short stays, early flights and travellers who want a lively evening scene. Lucca is quieter, prettier after dark and better for a slow stay, especially if you like walking and cycling. The two are about half an hour apart by regional train, so whichever you choose, the other makes an easy day trip. Here are the areas that work best and the hotel we recommend in each.
Pisa: the old town near Piazza dei Cavalieri
The medieval streets between the Knights’ Square and the Piazza dei Miracoli are the best place to stay for sightseeing. You can be at the Leaning Tower for the first slot of the morning and retreat to quieter lanes when the day-trippers arrive. Relais dell’Orologio on Via della Faggiola is a four-star hideaway two minutes from Piazza dei Cavalieri and about five from the tower, with a garden, breakfast included and parking listed, which is rare here. It is also handy for Pisa San Rossore station and its trains to Lucca.
Pisa: the Lungarni
The riverside avenues along the Arno are the most atmospheric part of Pisa, lined with palazzi, bars and the university, and lit beautifully at night. The Royal Victoria Hotel on Lungarno Pacinotti has been run by the same family since 1839 and has welcomed Dickens and Mary Shelley. It is the best-value characterful stay in the city, with breakfast included and river-view rooms, around eleven minutes on foot from the tower.
Pisa: south of the Arno near the station
The area around Corso Italia and Pisa Centrale is less romantic but very practical, with trains to Lucca and the airport shuttle on your doorstep. Hotel Bologna on Via Mazzini is a well-run four-star in a Tuscan palazzo, about five minutes from the station, with rare courtyard parking. It is the best choice if you are arriving by car or plane, or planning several day trips.
Lucca: around Piazza Napoleone
The western side of the old town, around the big tree-lined square, the opera house and the cathedral, is the most elegant place to stay in Lucca. The Grand Universe Lucca, an Autograph Collection hotel in a restored palazzo facing the Teatro del Giglio, is the splurge of this guide, with a restaurant on the square and a champagne rooftop. The station is about eight minutes away on foot.
Lucca: the quiet east side
The streets near the Botanical Garden and the eastern walls are calm and residential, a few minutes from the Guinigi Tower and Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. Hotel Ilaria on Via del Fosso is our pick for families and drivers, with free bikes for the walls, private parking, family rooms and a garden terrace.
Practical tips
Both historic centres are limited traffic zones, so never drive in until your hotel has registered your plate, and expect parking to cost extra. Many rooms are in old buildings and vary in size and outlook, so ask for a quiet or river-facing room if it matters. Prices rise in spring and summer and during big events such as Lucca Comics and Games in late autumn, so book early for those dates. Check whether breakfast is included, since rates differ.