Malá Strana

Aria Hotel Prague

★★★★★

Prague is one of Europe's great music cities, the home of Dvořák and Smetana, and the city where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni, and the Aria Hotel turns that heritage into a stylish place to stay. It is a five-star boutique hotel on Tržiště, a quiet street in Malá Strana between the Lesser Town Square and the embassies on the slopes below the castle. The hotel has 51 rooms, each decorated in a different style and dedicated to a musical genre or a famous musician, from classical composers to jazz and rock, with artwork, books and details that tell their story; musical-note mosaics run through the public spaces. It is a fun conceit carried off with taste, and the rooms are comfortable and well equipped. The hotel's greatest privilege is its private entrance to the Vrtba Garden, one of the most beautiful Baroque gardens in Prague, a terraced garden of statues, balustrades and staircases climbing toward Petřín Hill, with a view over the roofs of Malá Strana to St. Nicholas Church and the castle. In summer, the rooftop terrace adds a further view over the city. The restaurant, Coda, serves seasonal cooking, and the staff are known for their warmth and their help with concert tickets, a particular strength of the hotel. Music lovers can easily combine their stay with concerts at St. Nicholas Church, a few minutes away, the Rudolfinum, the Estates Theatre, where Don Giovanni premiered, and the National Theatre. It is an excellent choice for couples and culture lovers who want a characterful, intimate base on the castle side of the river.

Location: Tržiště is a short, quiet street off the Lesser Town Square, so the hotel is a five-minute walk from Charles Bridge, a short climb from Nerudova and the castle, and a few minutes from Kampa and the Lennon Wall. The Malostranské náměstí tram stop is around the corner, with trams to the castle, the Petřín funicular and across the river to the National Theatre. The Old Town is fifteen to twenty minutes on foot over Charles Bridge.

Living in it: ask for a room themed after a composer or genre you love, as the decoration is part of the pleasure; rooms facing the garden side are the quietest. Make time for the Vrtba Garden early in the morning or in the evening, when you may have it almost to yourself; it is a ticketed garden for the public, but guests have their own access. The rooftop terrace, open in the warmer months, is a lovely place for a drink at sunset.

The trade-offs: as with all Malá Strana hotels, the cobbles and slopes are tiring with luggage, and the neighbourhood is quiet at night. Rates are upper-end but generally below the big international brands. For music lovers, couples and anyone who wants a boutique hotel with personality, it is one of the most charming choices in Prague.