Malá Strana / Castle

Golden Well Hotel

★★★★★

The Golden Well, U Zlaté studně in Czech, is the boutique hotel closest to Prague Castle, and its setting feels almost secret. It occupies a Renaissance house at the top of a narrow lane in Malá Strana, set right below the castle's southern ramparts and gardens, with the roofs and domes of the Lesser Town tumbling away beneath its windows and the river and the Old Town beyond. The house has an illustrious past: it belonged to Emperor Rudolf II, the eccentric patron of alchemists and astronomers who made Prague the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, and it was later home to the Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, who worked at Rudolf's court. Today it is a small luxury hotel with a handful of individually decorated rooms and suites, furnished in a classic style with wooden floors, antiques and modern comforts, including air conditioning and Apple TV, and bathrooms stocked with robes and slippers. Many rooms have views over the city, and some look into the castle gardens. The hotel's Terasa restaurant is one of the best-known dining rooms in Prague, serving Czech and international cuisine across three levels, two heated terraces and an indoor room, each with views over the rooftops or the gardens; it is popular with non-guests, especially at sunset, so book ahead. The atmosphere is that of a private house, discreet and personal, with attentive staff who know their guests by name. It is perfect for couples and for travellers who want to wake up within a few minutes' walk of the castle, before the day-trippers arrive, and to fall asleep to one of the greatest views in Europe.

Location: the hotel is at the top of the lane of the same name, reached by steps from Malá Strana, about three minutes from the Lesser Town Square and seven from Charles Bridge on foot. The castle's south gardens and the Old Castle Steps are right there, so you can be in the castle courtyards before the crowds, and the Royal Garden is nearby during its opening hours. The flip side is the climb: the lane is steep and stepped, so mention luggage when booking and the staff will help.

Living in it: with only a small number of rooms, the Golden Well feels personal; book a room with a city view, which are the reason to stay, and ask about the suites if you are celebrating. Breakfast on the terrace on a summer morning, with Prague at your feet, is unforgettable. Make a dinner reservation at Terasa when you book your room, because the best tables are in demand.

The trade-offs: a small house means fewer facilities than the big luxury hotels, and the steps make it unsuitable for guests with limited mobility. But for a romantic weekend or a special trip, few hotels anywhere offer this combination of history, intimacy and view, and it is usually more affordable than the largest international names in Prague.