The Gianicolo

The Gianicolo, or Janiculum, is the long ridge rising behind Trastevere on the right bank of the Tiber, and from its terraces you get what many Romans consider the most beautiful view of their city. It was never one of the classic seven hills, lying outside the ancient city, but it has its own deep history, and the main promenade, the Passeggiata del Gianicolo, is lined with reminders of one of the defining moments of modern Italy. In 1849 the short-lived Roman Republic, defended by Giuseppe Garibaldi and his volunteers, fought the French army on these slopes, and the ridge is now a memorial park: a huge equestrian statue of Garibaldi crowns the main piazza, a dramatic monument to his Brazilian-born wife Anita shows her on a rearing horse with a baby in her arms, and the avenues are lined with marble busts of the patriots who fought here. The panoramic terrace at Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi looks east across the whole historic centre: the domes of the Pantheon and Sant'Andrea della Valle, the white bulk of the Vittoriano, the bell towers of Trastevere below, and on clear days the hills beyond. Every day at noon, a cannon below the terrace fires a single blank shot, a tradition that once let the city's churches set their bells by the same time, and it draws a small crowd. On the climb from Trastevere you pass two other treasures: the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, nicknamed the Fontanone, a monumental early seventeenth-century fountain at the end of an aqueduct, with its own wide view; and the church of San Pietro in Montorio, in whose courtyard stands Bramante's Tempietto, a tiny round temple that is one of the purest buildings of the High Renaissance.

How to do it: from Trastevere, the most rewarding route climbs on foot from Via Garibaldi, with steps cutting the hairpin bends, past San Pietro in Montorio and the Fontanone and on to Piazzale Garibaldi. It is a steady climb of around twenty to thirty minutes, and the views open up as you go. Alternatively, take a bus or taxi to the top and walk down, which is easier on the legs. Continue along the Passeggiata past the busts toward the lighthouse, the Faro, a gift from Italians in Argentina, and then down toward St Peter's if you like, a lovely way to link Trastevere and the Vatican.

Timing: the noon cannon is the set piece for families, so plan to reach the terrace just before midday; children love the bang. For couples and photographers, late afternoon and sunset are best, when the light turns the domes golden, although the sun sets behind you rather than over the city, so the effect is on the view rather than in it. The Tempietto keeps limited hours, as it stands within the courtyard of the Spanish Academy, so check before you rely on seeing it inside, though you can usually view it through the gate. There are kiosks for drinks, and on weekends a puppet theatre and pony rides add to the family appeal.

Why go: the Gianicolo gives you the whole city at your feet without a ticket, a queue or a lift, and it puts Trastevere, the Vatican and the centro storico into context in one sweep. It is a perfect morning or late-afternoon walk before dinner in Trastevere, which waits at the bottom of the hill. For history lovers, it is also the best place in Rome to understand the Risorgimento, the movement that unified Italy, and the role this ridge played in it.