The Jewish Ghetto

Jews have lived in Rome for more than two thousand years, longer than in any other city in Europe, and the small quarter between the Tiber and the Theatre of Marcellus where they were confined for three centuries is today one of the most atmospheric and moving neighbourhoods in the city. The Ghetto was created in 1555 by Pope Paul IV, who ordered Rome's Jews to live within walls in this crowded, flood-prone district, to wear a distinctive sign and to give up most trades and property; it was one of the oldest ghettos in the world, after Venice's, and its gates were only finally opened in 1870, when Rome became part of united Italy. Most of the original warren of streets was demolished soon afterwards, and on the riverfront rose the Tempio Maggiore, the Great Synagogue, inaugurated in 1904, with its distinctive square aluminium dome. It houses the Jewish Museum of Rome, whose collection of textiles, silver and documents tells the community's long story, and visits to the synagogue are by guided tour with a museum ticket. The neighbourhood also bears witness to the darkest day in its history, the roundup of 16 October 1943, when Nazi forces deported more than a thousand Roman Jews; brass plaques set into the pavement in front of homes, known as stumbling stones, record the names of those who never returned. Ancient Rome is here too: the Portico of Octavia, a monumental colonnade built by Augustus and named for his sister, still stands at the heart of the quarter, its columns framing a medieval church, and walkways let you look over the excavated ancient ground. A few streets away, in Piazza Mattei, the late-Renaissance Turtle Fountain is one of the city's most charming.

Eating is a big part of any visit. The Ghetto is the home of Judeo-Roman cooking, a tradition shaped by centuries of making the most of humble ingredients, and Via del Portico d'Ottavia is lined with restaurants serving it. The signature dish is carciofi alla giudia, whole artichokes deep-fried until they open like crisp golden flowers, at their best in winter and spring. Look also for fried salt cod fillets, fried courgette flowers, and the dense ricotta and sour cherry tart from the old-fashioned bakeries, which often sell out. Many restaurants are kosher, so they follow religious rules about meat and dairy, and some close on the Sabbath, from Friday evening to Saturday evening, and on Jewish holidays.

Practicalities: the neighbourhood is free to wander at any time, and it is compact, so an hour's stroll takes in the main sights, with another hour for the museum and synagogue tour. The Jewish Museum and synagogue have their own hours, close on Saturdays and Jewish holidays, and have airport-style security at the entrance; dress modestly. The roundup memorials and stumbling stones deserve a moment of quiet attention.

Plan around it: the Ghetto sits between the Campo de' Fiori and the Capitoline Hill, a few minutes from Piazza Venezia, so it is easy to fold into a day in the centro storico. Walk across the Ponte Fabricio, the oldest Roman bridge still in its original use, to Tiber Island and on to Trastevere, or south along the river to the Theatre of Marcellus and the Mouth of Truth. For food lovers, an early dinner of fried artichokes on Via del Portico d'Ottavia is one of the great Roman meals.