Villa d'Este and Hadrian's Villa

Tivoli, in the hills east of Rome, has been a summer escape from the city since antiquity, and it holds two of the greatest sights within reach of the capital. The first is Villa d'Este, built in the sixteenth century for Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este, a son of Lucrezia Borgia, who transformed a former convent into a palace and laid out below it a garden that became a model for gardens across Europe. Designed by the architect Pirro Ligorio, it is a theatre of water: terraces, stairways and avenues descend the slope, and everywhere there are fountains, fed by a river diverted into a system of channels and pools, working by gravity alone. Highlights include the Avenue of the Hundred Fountains, a long terrace of spouting masks and mossy basins; the Oval Fountain with its artificial cascade; the great Fountain of Neptune with its high jets; and the Fountain of the Organ, a hydraulic water organ that plays music at set times. The palace rooms, decorated with Mannerist frescoes, lead out to the terrace view over the garden and the plain toward Rome. The second is Hadrian's Villa, Villa Adriana, a short drive below the town, where the emperor Hadrian built a sprawling retreat of palaces, baths, libraries, theatres and pools in the second century, recreating places he had admired across the empire. The Canopus, a long reflecting pool framed by columns and statues, is one of the most photographed ancient views in Italy. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Visiting both in one day is possible and very rewarding, though it makes for a full day, and an organised trip with transport removes the logistics.

Which ticket: the Tiqets venue page for Villa d'Este offers day trips from Rome that include entry to both Villa d'Este and Hadrian's Villa with a guide and round-trip transport, which is the easiest way to see both sites without juggling regional buses and a transfer between them. Independent travellers can reach Tivoli by regional train from Roma Tiburtina or by regional bus from Ponte Mammolo Metro station, then walk from the town centre to Villa d'Este; reaching Hadrian's Villa independently requires a local bus or taxi, which is where many day trips come unstuck.

Timing: according to the current listing, Villa d'Este opens Tuesday to Sunday from the morning, with afternoon-only hours on Mondays; hours change with the season, so check before you travel. The gardens are at their best in spring and early summer, when everything is green and the fountains sparkle, but they are lovely year-round. The garden is steep, with many steps, so wear comfortable shoes, and remember that whatever you walk down, you will have to walk back up. Hadrian's Villa is spread over a large, mostly flat area with little shade, so bring water and sun protection in the warmer months, and allow at least two hours there.

Who it suits: couples love Villa d'Este's romance, and garden lovers rank it among the most beautiful places in Italy. History buffs will find Hadrian's Villa one of the most evocative imperial sites anywhere, particularly after seeing his mausoleum at Castel Sant'Angelo and his rebuilt Pantheon in the city. Families can do it, especially with a tour that handles transport, though the steps at Villa d'Este can tire small legs. If you only have a short time in Rome, prioritise the city; with four days or more, Tivoli is the day trip to choose.