Campo de Fiori / Largo Argentina

Hotel Smeraldo

★★★★★

Finding an affordable, comfortable room in the very middle of historic Rome is harder than it should be, and Hotel Smeraldo is one of the dependable answers. It sits on Vicolo dei Chiodaroli, a quiet lane roughly halfway between Campo de' Fiori and Largo di Torre Argentina, so the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Jewish Ghetto and Trastevere across the river are all within an easy walk. The hotel has around 50 rooms, decorated in a straightforward, comfortable style, with air conditioning, satellite TV and practical marble bathrooms; this is not a design hotel, but it is clean, well kept and run with care. Its best feature is outdoors: Smeraldo has three panoramic terraces, including a shaded patio and a rooftop terrace where you can sit in the sun with views across the domes and terracotta roofs of the centro storico, which is a rare treat at this price level. Breakfast is included in many rates and served in the morning before you head out. The lane itself is quiet compared with the surrounding squares, though rooms on the busier side can hear some traffic, so ask for an inner room if you are a light sleeper. Its location makes it particularly good for travellers who want to walk everywhere: you can wander to Campo de' Fiori's morning market for fruit, stroll to the Pantheon before the crowds, and return for a rest on the terrace in the afternoon. The neighbourhood is full of good trattorias, bakeries and wine bars, and many of the city's best evening walks begin within a few minutes of the door.

Location math: Largo Argentina, with its sunken temples and the cat sanctuary, is around the corner, and the Pantheon and Piazza Navona are about ten minutes on foot. Campo de' Fiori is two minutes away, and Ponte Sisto leads across to Trastevere. Trams and buses from Largo Argentina connect to Termini, Trastevere and the Vatican side. The Colosseum is around twenty to twenty-five minutes on foot via Piazza Venezia.

Room craft: rooms vary in size, so families or travellers with lots of luggage should request a larger room or a triple, and light sleepers should ask for a room away from the street side. Time a sunny afternoon or evening on the rooftop terrace, which is the hotel's special asset. Rome's city tax is charged per person per night and varies by hotel category, so expect it on top of your rate.

Practicals: rates are moderate for the centro storico, rising in spring and autumn, so book early for the best rooms. There is no restaurant, but you are surrounded by places to eat. Fit: budget-minded couples, families who want a central base without paying palazzo prices, and first-time visitors who want to walk to the major sights and come back to a terrace with a view.