Trionfale / Prati, near the Vatican

Mama Shelter Roma

★★★★★

Mama Shelter, the French brand known for theatrical design, lively restaurants and fair prices, brought its formula to Rome with a 217-room hotel in the residential Trionfale district, just north of Prati and within easy reach of the Vatican. It is one of the most enjoyable mid-range places to stay in the city, and an unusually good one for families. The style is bold and witty: bright colours, patterned ceilings, playful objects and a sense of humour throughout, with rooms ranging from Medium to Large and XL, each with good bedding, a big screen with free movies and organic toiletries. The ground floor is built around the Giardino d'Inverno, a glass-roofed winter-garden restaurant serving comforting Roman and Mediterranean dishes all day, open to locals as well as guests, with high chairs on hand for small children. A separate pizzeria offers a casual lunch or dinner, and breakfast is served in the main restaurant. In summer and early autumn, the rooftop bar opens with a solarium, loungers and a central bar for evening drinks over the rooftops; it closes over the winter months. The hotel's most unexpected feature is downstairs: the Mama Baths, a Roman-style spa area with a heated indoor pool, sauna and steam room, free for guests on reservation in time slots, alongside a gym. For families after a long day at the Vatican, a swim in a warm pool is a gift, and the pool is not open to the public, so it stays calm. The neighbourhood is local rather than touristy, with everyday shops, cafes and markets, and it gives you a real sense of residential Rome.

Location math: the hotel is described by the brand as a few steps from the Vatican treasures, and the Vatican Museums and St Peter's are within reach on foot or by a short bus or taxi ride. Prati's shopping street, Via Cola di Rienzo, and its many good restaurants are close by, and the Metro A line from the Vatican area links to the Spanish Steps and Termini. The centro storico is a longer ride, so this is a base for travellers who prioritise the Vatican side of the river and value calm evenings.

Families: children are welcome, but there is no dedicated kids club; the appeal is the relaxed atmosphere, the casual restaurants, larger XL rooms and the heated pool. Book pool slots at reception early in your stay, since sessions are capped. Children over a certain age are booked as adults, so check occupancy rules for older children when reserving. Couples like the buzz of the restaurant and the rooftop on summer evenings.

Practicals: book the XL category if you need space, and ask for a higher floor for light and views. Rates sit in the mid-range for Rome, with frequent offers. The rooftop is seasonal, typically from early summer to the end of October, so do not count on it in winter. Fit: families, design lovers and couples who want a fun, good-value base near the Vatican with a pool, rather than a historic palazzo in the centre.