Spanish Governor's Palace

The Spanish Governor's Palace is the most underrated historic site in downtown San Antonio and the best value: for a small admission fee, you step into the only surviving piece of the city's Spanish colonial military headquarters. Despite the grand name, it was never home to a governor; it was the comandancia, the residence and office of the captain of the Spanish presidio, the fortified garrison founded here in 1718 alongside the mission that became the Alamo. The low, thick-walled stone building dates from the early to mid 1700s and incorporates remnants of the original presidio, and it remained a military residence into the early 1800s. After Mexican independence and Texas statehood it went through many lives, including stints as a shop and a saloon, before preservationist Adina De Zavala campaigned to save it and the city bought and restored it in 1928, with a further renovation in 2010. Inside are ten rooms furnished with antique period pieces that evoke daily life on the Spanish frontier, from the family rooms to the kitchen, and landscaped courtyards with a fountain and shade trees. Look closely at the carved wooden doors, made in 1930 by the Swiss woodcarver Peter Mansbendel, and at the keystone over the entrance, carved with the Hapsburg arms. The palace is a National Historic Landmark. It also has a newly appreciated role in American history: during the Revolutionary War, San Antonio and Goliad supplied cattle to Spanish forces aiding the American colonies. It is open Tuesday to Sunday and closed Mondays, and admission is modest, with reductions for military and children. The drawback: it is small, so plan on thirty to forty-five minutes.

The palace sits on Military Plaza, the old Plaza de Armas, behind San Antonio City Hall and a block from San Fernando Cathedral and Main Plaza. That location makes it an easy addition to a downtown history walk: start at the Alamo, follow the River Walk or Commerce Street west to Main Plaza and the cathedral, visit the palace, then continue to Historic Market Square for lunch. In the evening, return to the cathedral for The Saga, the free projection show on its facade.

Inside, take your time in the courtyards, which are among the most peaceful spots downtown and give a real sense of how a frontier household lived around shaded outdoor space. The rooms are simply furnished, with heavy wooden furniture, religious art and household objects, and the thick walls keep the interior cool even in summer. History buffs will appreciate the contrast with the missions: while the missions show the religious side of Spanish Texas, the palace shows the military and administrative side.

Logistics: the palace is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed on Mondays. Admission is a few dollars for adults, with reduced prices for military with ID and children, so it is one of the cheapest attractions in the city. Parking is available in nearby downtown garages, but most visitors walk from the River Walk. The site is small and has uneven historic floors and thresholds, so check accessibility if needed. Allow up to an hour if you linger in the courtyards. Before you go, it helps to know a little of the wider story: the presidio, mission and civilian settlement founded in 1718 formed the core of Spanish Texas, and San Antonio later became the capital of the province. The palace is the most tangible surviving link to that military and civic past in the heart of downtown. Combined with the missions, the Alamo and San Fernando Cathedral, which was founded by settlers from the Canary Islands, it completes a picture of colonial San Antonio that few other American cities can match. Photography for personal use is generally welcome, but be gentle with the antique furnishings.