Imerovigli & Skaros Rock

Imerovigli is the caldera at its most serene. The highest of the rim villages, it stands about three hundred metres above the sea between Firostefani and Oia, and its name is often linked to the watch that was once kept here for pirate ships; today it is a calm, upmarket village of cave hotels, infinity pools and blue domes with views along the entire curve of the caldera, sometimes called the balcony of the Aegean. Its great landmark is Skaros Rock, the bulky headland that juts out into the caldera below the village. In the Middle Ages this was the site of the main castle of the island, a fortified town built under Venetian rule, with houses, churches and the residences of the local nobility packed onto the summit, safe from the pirates who raided the Aegean. Earthquakes and erosion gradually made it uninhabitable, and by the early nineteenth century the people had moved away, eventually making Fira the capital. Almost nothing of the castle remains, but the setting is unforgettable. A path drops from the village down a long flight of steps to the neck of land that joins the rock to the cliff, then climbs around the headland; at the far side, a little white chapel, Theoskepasti, perches on a ledge above the sea, one of the most photographed spots on the island. The walk takes about an hour there and back, longer if you climb onto the rock itself, which is steeper and more exposed. Back in the village, the lanes are quieter than those of Fira or Oia, the sunsets are just as good, and many visitors find this the most romantic stretch of the rim.

Walking to Skaros: start from the main lane in Imerovigli, where signs point down the steps toward Skaros. The path is well made but steep, with uneven stone steps and no shade, so go early in the morning or in the late afternoon, wear shoes with grip and carry water. The track around the rock to the chapel is narrow in places, with a drop on one side; it is fine for confident walkers but not for anyone uncomfortable with heights or for small children who might run ahead. The scramble onto the summit of the rock is rougher still. Remember that every step you descend must be climbed again on the way back, and the climb in summer heat is a workout. Check local signs for any closures on caldera paths.

When to go: sunrise at Skaros is magical and almost empty, while sunset from the rock or the village is busy but far calmer than in Oia. Imerovigli is also a natural stop on the caldera hike from Fira to Oia, and the detour to Skaros adds about an hour to the walk. In winter, the village is very quiet and most hotels close, but the path and the views remain.

Staying in Imerovigli: the village has some of the most exclusive hotels on the island, including Grace Hotel, Auberge Collection, with its infinity pool on the cliff, and it suits couples who want calm and views rather than nightlife. Fira is a pleasant thirty-minute walk away along the rim, or a short taxi ride, for restaurants and buses. Families should note that many cliffside hotels accept only older children and involve a lot of steps.