Megalochori Village

Megalochori is the village to choose when you want old Santorini without the crowds. It lies in the south-west of the island, close to the caldera but not perched on it, and for centuries it was a wealthy wine village, home to the families who owned the vineyards and canavas, the old wine cellars, of the surrounding plain. That prosperity shows in its fine mansions, its many churches and the distinctive bell towers that arch across the lanes, one of the most photographed sights on the island. Discover Greece describes Megalochori as having a sense of calm, and that is exactly what you feel walking its narrow, winding streets in the late afternoon, when the light softens and the cats come out. The heart of the village is the little square, shaded by trees and lined with tavernas and cafes, where you can sit for hours over a glass of local wine. From there the lanes lead off between high walls and arched doorways, past small chapels and courtyards, to the edge of the village and the vineyards beyond. On the western side a path leads past a windmill to the chapel of Agios Nikolaos, perched near the caldera edge, a short and peaceful walk with a fine view. Wine is everywhere: Discover Greece lists four wineries in and around the village, Gavalas, Boutari, Hatzidakis and Venetsanos, making Megalochori a natural base for a tasting afternoon. The village also has a cultural centre that runs workshops and events, and farms nearby offer horse riding and cookery classes. Megalochori has become a fashionable place to stay, with boutique hotels in restored mansions, but it remains a lived-in village with a year-round population, which gives it a warmth some of the caldera villages have lost.

How to explore: there is no set route and no ticket; the joy is in getting a little lost. Start at the square, walk up to the arched bell towers, then follow the lanes towards the edge of the village to see the old canavas, some of them now converted into hotels and restaurants. Allow an hour or two for the village itself, more if you add the walk to the windmill and Agios Nikolaos chapel or a winery visit. Sunset is lovely from the caldera edge to the west of the village, and far less crowded than Oia; Venetsanos Winery, a short walk or drive away on the cliff, is one of the best sunset spots on this side of the island.

Seasons: because people live here all year, Megalochori never shuts down completely, and it is one of the better villages for a winter visit. Many tavernas and boutique hotels are seasonal, however, so from November to March expect a few places open around the square rather than a full choice. The wineries also run reduced programmes outside summer; check before you visit. In high summer, come in the late afternoon rather than at midday, when the lanes are hot and tour groups pass through.

Getting there: Megalochori is on the main road between Fira and the south, about a quarter of an hour by car or taxi from Fira. Buses towards Akrotiri and Perissa stop near the village. Parking is at the edge of the village, since the lanes inside are pedestrian. Combine it with the Lost Atlantis Experience, which is in Megalochori, a winery or two, and Akrotiri or the beaches of the south coast, and you have a full, varied day well away from the caldera crowds.