Perissa & Perivolos Black Sand Beach

Santorini is not famous for its beaches, but the long black-sand strip on its south-east coast is one of its great pleasures and the antidote to the crowds of the caldera. It begins at Perissa, beneath the great limestone bulk of Mesa Vouno, the mountain that separates it from Kamari and carries the ruins of Ancient Thera on its ridge, and runs south for several kilometres through Perivolos to Agios Georgios, with barely a break. The sand and fine pebbles are dark grey to jet black, made of volcanic material, and they shimmer in the sun. Along its length the beach changes character: Perissa has a small village with a big church, tavernas, cafes and shops and a laid-back, family-friendly atmosphere; Perivolos, a stretch of about three kilometres, is lined with beach bars and stylish beach clubs with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent, music and cocktails; and Agios Georgios, at the southern end, is quieter again, with a handful of tavernas. Most of the beach is organised, with sunbeds, umbrellas, water sports, snack bars and restaurants, and much of it can be enjoyed without paying for a lounger. The water is clear and deepens fairly quickly, and on windy days in summer the east coast is often calmer than the north. Perissa is also one of the best-value places to stay on Santorini, with simpler hotels, studios and apartments, and the Perivolos end has some smart beach hotels, including Istoria. Buses run frequently from Fira in season, taking about half an hour, and the area makes a relaxed base for families who do not need a caldera view from their room.

Practical tips: black sand absorbs the heat and can become painfully hot in summer, so bring sandals or water shoes and do not walk barefoot in the middle of the day. Sunbeds are usually rented for the day or come free with a minimum spend at the beach bar, so ask before you sit. Swimming is generally good, but watch for strong winds and follow lifeguard flags where present. The beach is long enough that you can always find space, even in August, by walking a little away from the busiest bars.

Beyond the beach: from Perissa a path climbs Mesa Vouno to Ancient Thera, the Hellenistic and Roman town on the ridge, a steep walk best done early in the morning, and the site itself has its own opening days and ticket. On the other side of the mountain, Kamari has its own black-sand beach with a lively promenade, and in summer small boats shuttle between the two. Emporio, the largest inland village, with its Venetian castle quarter, is a short drive from Perissa. Vlychada, further south-west, is a wilder beach backed by sculpted cliffs of pumice.

Seasons: the beach bars and most sunbeds operate from about May to October. In spring and late autumn the sea is cool but the beach is quiet and beautiful, and in winter almost all the bars close, the sunbeds are stacked away and the beach belongs to walkers and locals, though Perissa village keeps a few places open. Red Beach, near Akrotiri, is often listed alongside these beaches, but access has been restricted at times because of rockfalls, so the black-sand coast is the safer and more comfortable choice for a beach day.