Thirasia and the Volcanic Islands Cruise

Look west from Oia and the long ridge across the water is Thirasia, the second-largest piece of the ring of islands that surrounds the caldera. Before the great Bronze Age eruption it was part of the same round island as Santorini; afterwards the sea flooded in and left Thirasia standing alone, its cliffs facing the main island across the bay. Today it has a handful of small villages, a few hundred residents, terraced fields, quiet tavernas at the water's edge and almost none of the crowds that fill Oia and Fira. Manolas, the main village, sits along the clifftop with blue-domed churches and a view back to Oia that most visitors never see; down below, small harbours shelter fishing boats and waterside restaurants. The easiest way to see it as a first-time visitor is on this full-day caldera cruise, which links three very different islands. The boat first sails to Nea Kameni, the youngest island of the caldera, where a guide leads the walk up across the black lava fields to the crater of the active volcano. Next it stops at Palea Kameni for a swim to the warm, rust-coloured water of the hot springs. Then it crosses to Thirasia for free time, enough for lunch at a harbourside taverna or a climb to the village for the view. Audio commentary on board explains what you are seeing, and live guides speak English, Greek and several other European languages. Compared with the shorter three-hour volcano trip, this tour trades speed for a slower, more varied day, and it is the cruise to choose if you are curious about the quieter side of the caldera. It is a popular product with a mid-sized boat, so do not expect solitude on board, but Thirasia itself feels a world away.

What is included and what is not: the Tiqets ticket covers the cruise, the guided volcano walk and audio commentary, and if you choose that option at checkout, a return bus transfer from your hotel area, with pick-up details confirmed by email. Not included are the volcano entrance fee, which is paid separately at Nea Kameni at a few euros per person, and lunch and drinks, which you buy on Thirasia or on board. Free cancellation is available up to twenty-four hours before departure. Bring swimwear, a towel, sturdy shoes for the lava path, a hat and cash for the volcano fee and lunch. The hot-springs swim is from the boat into open water, so it suits confident swimmers.

Season and the Thirasia port: caldera cruises run from spring to autumn, and in early November there are still some departures, but the schedule thins out and weather cancellations become more common, so be flexible in the shoulder season and expect little or nothing in deep winter. The operator also notes that Thirasia's port has been closed for maintenance work for part of the season; during such closures the boat makes a swimming stop in the bay of Thirasia instead of landing, adds a scenic caldera tour and finishes earlier at Athinios. If setting foot on Thirasia matters to you, check the current note on the product page before you book.

Going independently: you can also reach Thirasia by the small local boats that cross from Ammoudi below Oia, and by some ferries that call at its harbour, which lets you stay longer, walk between the villages and even spend the night in one of its simple rooms. That route rewards travellers with time; the cruise is the better choice if you also want the volcano and hot springs in a single, organised day. Either way, the island is one of the best antidotes to busy Santorini, and a reminder of what the Cyclades felt like before mass tourism.