Perissa

Stelios Place Perissa

★★★★★

Santorini has a reputation as one of the most expensive islands in Greece, and on the caldera that is deserved. Stelios Place is the antidote. It is a small, family-run hotel in Perissa, opened in 1992 and still run by the same family, and it sits about two minutes on foot from the long black-sand beach. The approach is refreshingly simple: clean, compact rooms of around twenty square metres, a pool with sunbeds where guests gather in the afternoons, and owners who are, by many guests' accounts, unusually welcoming and generous with local tips. Guest reviews on the hotel's own site repeatedly describe it as a great family hotel and excellent value, and it has collected travellers' choice awards over the years. The room ladder is straightforward. Basic and standard double rooms suit couples on a budget, standard twins on the ground floor are useful for friends or anyone who wants to avoid stairs, and standard triples sleep three in single beds or a double plus a single, a good solution for families with one child or older kids. Do not expect luxury fittings, caldera views or a spa; do expect a cheerful, sociable atmosphere and a location where you can walk to the beach, tavernas, supermarkets and the bus stop in minutes. Transfers from the airport or the port can be arranged by taxi or minibus at extra cost. Perissa itself is a good fit for budget travellers. It is lively but relaxed, with plenty of inexpensive places to eat, beach bars along the sand, water sports, and buses to Fira. It is also the starting point for the walk up to Ancient Thera via the Sellada saddle and a few minutes from Emporio, Perivolos and Vlychada.

Season: the hotel states that it is open from 1 April to 31 October, so it is not an option for a winter trip. In April, May and October it is at its quietest and often at its best value, with warm days and the beach to yourself; July and August are busy and book up early. Check-in is from mid-afternoon and check-out late morning, which matters if you arrive on an early ferry; ask about leaving luggage.

Who it suits: budget-conscious couples, families with one child or teenagers, solo travellers and friends sharing a twin or triple. Light sleepers should ask for a quieter room, as Perissa is lively on summer evenings. If you want a sea view, a hot tub or room service, look elsewhere; if you want to spend your money on a catamaran cruise, a wine tasting and good dinners, this is exactly the right kind of base.

Getting around: buses to Fira leave from Perissa regularly in season, taking about twenty to thirty minutes, and connect there to Oia and the rest of the island. A hire car or quad bike for a day or two is handy for the caldera sunsets. The airport is roughly a quarter of an hour away by road and Athinios port around twenty minutes.