The Anaga mountains in the north-east of Tenerife feel a world away from the beaches of the south. Sharp ridges and deep ravines run down to the sea, and the higher slopes are covered in laurisilva, the humid laurel forest that once covered much of southern Europe and survives in only a few Atlantic islands, often draped in mist and moss. Almost fourteen and a half thousand hectares are protected as a rural park, and UNESCO recognised it as a Biosphere Reserve in 2015. Small farming hamlets such as Taganana and Chinamada, some with homes built into the rock, cling to the slopes, and black-sand beaches lie at the end of winding roads. Entry to the park is free. The Cruz del Carmen visitor centre, on the main road through the mountains, has information, maps and a short accessible path, the Sendero de los Sentidos, into the forest.
How it works: by car, take the TF-12 from La Laguna along the ridge, past Cruz del Carmen, to the El Bailadero junction, then down the TF-134 to Taganana. Buses 945 and 947 run from Santa Cruz and lines 076, 077 and 273 to 275 from La Laguna, but services are infrequent, so check timetables before you go. The Cruz del Carmen visitor centre opens daily from 9:30 to 16:00. Some protected areas have restricted access or need authorisation in advance, and visitor numbers in the Bosque de los Enigmas are regulated, so check the Cabildo’s permit information before a long hike.
What to expect: the weather can change quickly, and the forest is often cloudy and damp even when the coast is sunny. Roads are narrow and winding, and parking at trailheads fills up at weekends. Popular routes include the PR-TF 10 from Cruz del Carmen to Punta del Hidalgo, the trail to Chinamada and the paths around Taganana.
Making the most of it: start early from La Laguna, walk the Sendero de los Sentidos for a taste of the forest, then drive to Taganana for lunch and the beaches. Bring waterproofs, a warm layer and good shoes.
What to expect
The experience
A mountain park of forest trails, viewpoints, hamlets and beaches, explored by car, bus and on foot.
Best time
An early start on a weekday, when trailhead parking is easier and the morning light is best.
How long
Half a day for the forest and viewpoints, a full day with a longer hike and Taganana.
Tips
Check permit rules for restricted areas, bring waterproofs and a warm layer, and check bus times in advance.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Hikers and nature lovers who want to see a greener, wilder side of Tenerife.
- Families
- The short Sendero de los Sentidos at Cruz del Carmen is easy and fun for children.
- Couples
- Walk among the mossy trees, then share grilled fish in Taganana.
- Pair with
- The old town of La Laguna, at the foot of the mountains.
- Time needed
- Half a day to a full day.
Good questions
Do I need a permit to hike in Anaga?+
Entry to the park is free, and most trails need no permit. Some protected areas need authorisation in advance, so check the Cabildo’s permit information before you go.
How do I get to Anaga without a car?+
Buses 945 and 947 run from Santa Cruz, and several lines run from La Laguna to Cruz del Carmen and the villages. Services are infrequent, so plan around the timetable.
What is the weather like in Anaga?+
It is often cloudy, misty and cooler than the coast, especially in the forest. Bring a waterproof and a warm layer.
What is the Cruz del Carmen visitor centre?+
It is the park’s information centre on the main road through the mountains, open daily from 9:30 to 16:00. It is the start of the short Sendero de los Sentidos forest path.
What are the best walks in Anaga?+
Popular routes include the PR-TF 10 from Cruz del Carmen to Punta del Hidalgo, the path to the cave hamlet of Chinamada and the trails around Taganana. Choose based on your fitness, since many involve steep climbs.